After reading the good reviews of Boeshield T9 rust preventative, I
bought some at a wood working show. My new general tablesaw had been
sitting in my garage since I bought it about a month ago. After
cleaning up the gunk manufacturers put on the machines to avoid rust, it
didn't have any protective layer on it, and it looked fine a month
later. Then I bought the Boeshield. Before putting it on, I rubbed the
table down with naphtha, after which I sprayed Boeshield on and wiped
most of it off. The next day I had rust. I cleaned all of it off with
mineral spirits and re-applied Boeshield. Again, the next day I had
rust. I called the company and was just told to "put it on thicker."
After being bitten twice, I'm hesitant to go through it again. Anyone
have any theories? I'm leaning towards simply using Johnson paste wax
on the table top.
-Peter De Smidt
I've got T-9 and it is the BEST product I've ever used to prevent rust.
Better than paste wax. I use SC Johnson's paste wax on all tables
that come in contact with wood. I use the T9 on other metal surfaces
and haven't seen any rust forming on the T9 protected items. I don't
wipe it off like you said you did...
Peter De Smidt wrote:
How exactly do you apply it? Just spray it on and walk away?
I tried it but wasn't impressed. It didn't leave a slick surface. Maybe I
didn't apply it properly. I went back to TopCote and have never had rust
Boeshield does NOT and was never intended nor designed to leave a
Use a different product if that is your goal, pastewax is the tried
and true solution for cast iron table tops, but you gotta apply and
re-apply as neeeded
Would this work ? : 1. Apply a coat of Boeshield, let dry
(for rust prevention). 2. Then on top of this apply paste wax
(for "slick" surface).
I have always just used paste wax. with decent results.
But I was just recently contemplating buying some Boeshield,
for the first time, for the additional rust prevention.
Am I being a sucker for the magazine article test results that showed
Boeshield to be pretty effective ?)
I guess my question is: has anyone ever applied paste wax over
Boeshield, and how did it work ?
Probably not. BoeShield leaves behind a very SOFT wax surface, and
applying pastewas over that will likely remove most of the BoeShield
Use the Boeshield on areas that dont' need to be hard/dry and slick.
Use pastewax or other commerical castiron table top treatments for the
On 4 Mar 2004 04:16:04 -0800, firstname.lastname@example.org (Ken) wrote:
I cannot remember the acid that was in the rust remover. It was either
pyrophoric or phosphoric but it does eat away at the oxidation. I had a
bottle of it that leaked in my cabinet and I took some baking soda out
to clean it up. You might carefully choose where you decide to store it.
BTW, acids and solvents DO NOT play well together.
Wiping it OFF gives little protection. If you want the level of
protection you desire, you spray it on liberally, let it set, and it
produces a thick, soft, waxy surface that is superb for rust
protection, but SUCKS for use on a table saw TABLE
Use paste wax or something like TopCote on the table, use the
Boeshield elsewhere on the saw.
Again, if you use BoeShield, DO NOT wipe it off, and be sure you shake
the can real well
On Tue, 02 Mar 2004 19:05:55 -0600, Peter De Smidt
Well, leaving a thin coat should give better protection than no
protective. Spraying Boeshield on *caused* the table to noticably rust
in a day. This is *much* worse than what occurred the entire month the
top sat in the garage unprotected. Since BoeShield *causes* rust in my
application, I'm not sure why applying more would be a good idea. I'm
also at a loss as to why I should use Boeshield to cause rust on the
non-top parts of the saw.
I have two theories. One, there was a manufacturing defect and moisture
got into the T9. Second, while there wasn't any visible rust after a
month sitting unprotected, and I'm using a 2000 watt movie light as my
setup light/heater at the moment and so I doubt that I missed seeing
any, then perhaps there was microscopic rust that the Naphtha didn't
remove. If so, then perhaps spraying Boeshield sealed in whatever was
causing the rust, which caused the surface to rust faster.
I open to any other theories. My plan is to use BoeShield rust removing
spray and then apply paste wax to the top. Unless I can figure out what
went wrong, however, I won't use T-9 for anything.
I would suspect that the table top was NOT totally cleaned of any rust
OR maybe the table top was NOT 100% DRY when you applied the BoeShield
Been using BoeShield for many years, and althought it is always a
possibility of a screw up at the Packing Plant, personally I would
On Wed, 03 Mar 2004 10:49:37 -0600, Peter De Smidt
I dont think it caused rust. I think you had residue left over from the
original cleaning. Then you used Naptha to clean the surface and removed
what little protection there was left. The Boeshield simply did not do the
job as expected. Using the Naptha to clean the surface is probably what
caused the surface to rust as it was expoed to the air.
I had the same problem... I think the trick is to put on a thick coat and
leave it on until you are ready to use the saw and then wipe off the
residue. I do not care for the stuff either. I prefer TopCote as it was
actually developed to be used for this.
I was in the shop on Saturday, after not having been in there for more
than two months.
A couple of months previous to that I had experimented with using
dewaxed shellac as a top coat for my jointer.
I used the jointer enough to see that the shellac was not rubbed off
The only tool that showed no rust at all was the jointer.
The other tools were coated with paste wax or Boeshield, or TopCote.
I'm preaching the gospel of dewaxed shellac as a rust barrier for cast
Can I get an Amen?
Thomas J. Watson - Cabinetmaker (ret.)
(Real Email is tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet)
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