Brilliant!!! Aligned well to the fence at 90 to the table and out of alignment when healed over to 45. Yup, you saw guts are all catywampus. Why didn't I think of that. Also explains the "wavy" cut because it keeps trying to cut along a path but wedges into the fence and gets forced out, then starts again, etc.
If it cuts okay with the blade plumb, your trunnions need shimming.
****************** You're wasting your time. I suggested this back on 31 Dec in a response to the original post and included a link to a site with details on why and how to fix. Apparently it fell on deaf ears. Art
I took a look at it. No apparent problem with what you suggest on my TS.
Peetie
What do you mean by apparent? Did you actually measure it? You didn't want to buy the sites jig, I didn't either, and I suggested you make your own as it is easy to do. All of your symptoms point to this alignment issue with the saw. Art
You are trolling, right? A direct drive piece of junk with a 20 year old
40 tooth blade? C'mon.Just in case you aren't trolling:
Sears is notorious for "rated" HP abuse. It takes 745 watts to equal 1hp without counting losses in the motor. Read the nameplate on the motor and figure it out.
Direct drive table saws are the cheapest of the cheap. Sometimes referred to as job site saws.
A 20 year old blade? When was it last sharpened?
A 40 tooth blade is for crosscutting. A rip blade is usually 24 tooth or thereabouts.
If you can't afford to replace the cheap saw, at least get a good thin kerf rip blade like:
Isn't the OP the same poster who said he had no significant blade runout but couldn't quantify it? Some people won't take advice.
I have a suspicion he's trolling.
If only one side of the kerf is scorching with the blade tilted, that's a dead giveaway. If both sides, clean the blade, sharpen it, or replace it.
One more possibility -- right or left tilt saw? Which side of the blade are you using the fence on?
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