Antiquing Pine

I usually do the preliminary sanding, and then before applying finish, I apply dings, dents, gouges, bangs, etc. A ball peen hammer is useful because of the different types of edges. I press the shaft against the wood edges and run it around.

Then I apply a dark stain - sometimes ebony. The dark stain soaks into the dents and cuts.

Then I sand off the top layer, so only the distressed pieces of wood are dark.

I then apply the normal color stain, and finish as usual.

A dark wax can be used as well, afterwards. This fills in the gaps etc, and looks like years of crude and build-up.

I sometimes use the Beall buff system. This gives the piece a warm well-polished look - like it's seen a lot of use.

Check out Jeff Jewett's video (or book). I remember he uses muriatic acid on pine to age it.

I paint it with a simple strong solution of washing soda, then leave it overnight. This gives some age darkening, but is a pretty benign process. Almost any chemical oxidiser will do, but most are overkill.

Then I'd apply a finish. I wouldn't use bare wax on pine, because it's not a high enough quality timber to demand it as a "precious" piece and it's not a strong enough finish for the everyday use that pine will probably see. I'd probably oil it first, then apply a clear wax. If it's wanting a hard-wearing surface, then maybe two (no more) coats of a gel poly.

Local practice in the "instant antique" trade is a tinted wax, usually Briwax. I don't like this, as it gives a darker surface over a lighter timber. Any small scrapes are very visible.

I find a plastic rotary wire brush a good tool for applying and power-buffing wax. Although these will clean and polish copper, they do very little to the surface of timber, bar a gently softening of edges.