Advice Wanted On This Trim Project

[clare]

Be a lot better to use red cedar

[John Grossbohlin]

Yeah... PVC can be a bit pricy compared to "real" wood!

Any chance you can get your client to allow you (code for "they pay for") to put an aluminum drip cap on it? As it now water is running down the face of the brick, and probably through the brick, and landing on the wood. I'm thinking a hem at the back (to keep water from migrating towards the house) and a small lip over the outside would suffice. The curve is gentle enough that you might not have to worry about relief cuts on the lip... use a gutter downspout crimper to shrink the lip a bit if needed... (could probably be improvised).

[DerbyDad03]

None. Maybe PT wood was better back then.

[John Grossbohlin]

I took a look at the photo again after I posted about the drip cap on the curve... I think you also need some window/door cap flashing between the curved board and the top board of the door frame.

You could probably modify this stuff for the curve too if you don't have a brake to bend up the flashing I suggested in my prior note. For example, trim the top leg down to about 1/4" and put some relief cuts in it. Then turn it into a hem with a hand seamer. For example:

After you have the curve bent into it apply some silicone chalk at the relief cuts.

[krw]

Amazing. The CCA stuff was a lot better, sure, but water still did it in. I had that stuff shred on decks, too.

[clare]

PT wood has always varied in quality from pretty decent to total crap. The older stuff had more potent chemicals

[dadiOH]

As a matter of fact I do. A brand new, never used Okidata. A box of tractor paper too.

[OFWW]

Is tractor paper what you put on their seats when you service them? ;)

[Scott Lurndal]

Or just maybe the local climate makes a difference in the longevity of pressure treated softwoods.

[Scott Lurndal]

Use a pantograph from the original photo to the board itself.

[DerbyDad03]

The decks/walkways in question see an average of 35" of rain and 85" of snow per year. Both areas get shoveled, so they are rarely snow covered for any length of time. Neither area gets any sun to speak of.

[Puckdropper]

OFWW wrote in news: [e-mail]:

It's the stuff you put under the old one that just can't stop leaking.

Even my brand new tractor had to be paper trained. :-)

Puckdropper

[DerbyDad03]

Did you say "tractor paper" or "paper tractor"?

[Scott Lurndal]

And around here, we're lucky to get 15" total moisture annually (99% from November through April). PT lasts a long time.

[clare]

Untreated SPF would likely last in that climate with a cheap coat of paint - perhaps even without.

[jmpisa]

Protect the door and rip out the wood back to clean bricks. Rip some Luan o r door skin into 2'x8', however many it takes to span the opening at ground level. Tack it together and tack it to the frame so it stands verticaly. Drop a plumb bob from the bricks to the luan and make a mark. Touch each brick or every few inches, whatever works for you, and make a mark. Work s ide to side plotting as you go. Connect the dots and cut on the line to de scribe a rough copy of the arch. Hold it up and scribe it close for a good fit. Transfer the arc to the new material. Works every time.

[Brewster]

In these parts we get more rain in a year than most places get in a single day. PT lumber typically dissolves from UV exposure.

-BR

[DerbyDad03]

Which may explain why my decks and walkways have lasted for so long.

They get so little sun, they don't even know how to spell UV.