Advice Wanted On This Trim Project

It is hard to do but sometimes it is best to just walk away from these type jobs.

Reply to
Leon
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Exactly! At least several coats of sealer/paint on all sides before installing. The brick will always weep water onto the top of the arc.

Reply to
Leon

The drip edge idea is a winner. Caulk, to make sure no water gets behind it. Paint should protect the surface well enough, as long as no water is allowed to get around the edges and sit.

Reply to
krw

Not to mention that treated lumber will still rot if it's allowed to stay wet. It's bug resistant, not water resistant. He'd be cutting into the important top edge, too. The, now exposed, interior of the wood isn't as saturated as the surface.

Reply to
krw

None of that is true, except the dry part. All you have to do is wait for it to dry out a bit and it takes paint fine.

Like I said, the cheapest option is to replace it with what's there. I'm not going to charge the client to reinvent the wheel. Even if it's a lousy wheel. :-)

I hope you're kidding.

Reply to
-MIKE-

Yeah, I know. But if I don't help her, who will? I have a mason friend going over tomorrow to see if he can tell if that thing is holding up the bricks.

Reply to
-MIKE-

I'm hoping to find a "drier" 2x12 so I can prime, but in any case, I may put some flashing tape along the top edge.

Reply to
-MIKE-

  1. I have liquid wood preservative.
  2. It's all "bugs." Water doesn't rot wood. It's microscopic bugs and fungus that rot wood. You ever notice how fence posts or dock posts don't rot way underground or water. Not enough oxygen. They rot closer to the surface.
Reply to
-MIKE-

Reply to
clare

Maybe spray some of that rubberized sealant on before painting.

Reply to
Leon

or vacuum bag it in linseed oil - - -

Reply to
clare

Have you ever noticed pressure treated decking? It doesn't rot, but it sure doesn't last very long, naked.

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Reply to
krw

  1. None of that is news to me nor contradicts anything I wrote.
  2. What I install won't be "naked."
Reply to
-MIKE-

Unless the top is wrapped with flashing of some sort (with a drip edge to divert the water away), it will remain wet. The point is that using PT doesn't help this problem at all.

Reply to
krw

What's your definition of "doesn't last" and "not very long"?

I've got untreated PT decking that has lasted just fine for 25+ years.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

I covered that. Pun.

Reply to
-MIKE-

Then there is no point in using PT, which was my point.

Reply to
krw

Sure there is. But you just argue in circles in here for your own enjoyment so you have fun.

Reply to
-MIKE-

The article says "9 years", which is about what I've found. I have to replace mine (the house is ten years old) and I had to replace it on my last house (at five years). I'm not sure if I'm going to add to the deck, and cover it, or just replace the decking. I'll probably put it off 'til spring.

Without waterproofing, of some sort?

Reply to
krw

If you don't want to have a conversation, you really don't have to answer me. ...or am I that threatening to your manhood?

Reply to
krw

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