8' long rip on TS

Use a long straight edge and circ saw, with the plywood laying on some styrofoam pieces on the floor.

My experience is to avoid helpers. I use multiple roller stands with swivel wheels on infeed and outfeed to support both sides of the cut and when cutting to press the plywood against the fence. Where material allows, I cut it 1/4 inch oversize, then retrim the cut piece when it is more manageable in size.

I find helpers tend to try to help too much and often move about as they are easing the wood through the saw when walking backwards, which causes binding and a weaving cut.

I find 8' plywood rips aren't possible (with a full 4' sheet.) It's one of those times where a straightedge and the wormdrive circular saw is the right tool (for me).

Ed

For important stuff, I always use a table on the outfeed side of the saw, and a rolling work table on the infeed. I roll the sheet (on the table) up to the saw and the table stops rolling when it gets to the saw, but the top is slick enough that the sheet keeps going. The surface of both in and out feed tables are slightly lower than the saw top.

Without tables, I'd suggest making rough cuts, then final cuts on the smaller, more manageable pieces.

I agree about the helpers. Inevitably, you end up fighting each other, even if you're not trying to.

Get/make outfeed support for both the cut and offcut. Infeed support is good as well.

Hold the plywood at the back left corner. I like to have one hand on the back and one on the left side. Start the cut, applying pressure towards the front right corner to keep the board against the fence. Once you get fast the first few feet, move directly behind the sheet and push it through.

Chris

And so I sent her off to start supper. :D

I stacked some stock on the Workmate for a bit of help at the far infeed end, and added a featherboard for hold-down at the fence for insurance. It was a complete non-event. Most of it, I think, was a mental block that said it would be a difficult cut. One down, 6 more to go. Thanks for the nudge.

I envy you that. It just wouldn't start straight for me. The long leverage made it especially easy to over correct. (It turned out to be pretty manageable just by adding some support at the far end, behind me. I just stoood at the table and fed it, just like any other rip. Maybe some day in the far future, I'll try it again... but I suspect I'll just happily pay the $1/cut.)

Board Buddies

Keep your eye on the edge riding the fence, make sure it stays tight to the fence. Don't watch the blade.

Safer, surer - use a circular saw and guide.

That's them. Wow! $50/pair.

Yah. I do that for shorter cuts, but don't have an 8' long straightedge. It's unbelievable how much a 2" sheet costs these days. About $30 a 4x8 a few months ago.

I think I paid a litle under $40 for my set - and you may find a better price if you look around carefully.

They do work well, tho.

Sure ya do. You just made 14 of them, right? :-)

Or, sacrifice one rip of your next sheet of ply... the factory edge is going to be everything you need. Rip an 8" piece and (combined with a pair of clamps) you have all the straightedge you need.

Those definitely fall under the category of, "worth the money."

Is there an echo in here? :-)

Nah, just someone who replies before reading all the other replies. (grin)

Ed

I'm not sure why you're having this trouble. With a properly sized infeed and outfeed tables and smooth surface to slide on, I've very rarely had trouble taking slices off an 8' sheet of plywood.

I've never been able to get a lumberyard to make a clean straight cut for me. It's been a waste of time. Home Depot with their panel saw does a little better job, but they don't sell the veneered ply that I often buy so I can't get it cut there.