I use a 1/2" sheet of plywood to support cuts in large pieces. It takes
a few minutes to adjust the blade depth so it cuts just past the depth of
the piece and doesn't cut too deep into the plywood.
This sometimes causes a bit of trouble with slightly warped (cupped)
pieces, as the blade may not want to go all the way through. The 2" foam
gives a deeper cut, and thus eliminates this problem.
On Usenet, no one can hear you laugh. That's a good thing, though, as
some writers are incorrigible.
It would be even more manageable if you extended the fence. Consider: you
have a foot or so of fence between the infeed side of the table and blade;
that means you have seven feet or so of heavy, hard to manage plywood
hanging off the end. Even if it were totally supported it would be easy to
wobble off the fence. If you clamp a piece of straight 2x4 to the fence so
that it is hanging off the infeed side by two feet you now have three feet
of initial contact area instead of one.
It sounds like you're having trouble sliding the wood and that it's not
travelling past the blade smoothly. If you were cutting a simple piece of
pine, does it cut smoothly, without burning? If not, then you likely have a
blade/fence alignment problem. If that's not the case then it's likely
friction from your support surfaces.
For any infeed/outfeed support that you're using, what kind of surfaces do
they have? For example, if you're trying to slide the plywood onto another
support that is plywood, then you're going to get some friction causing
difficulty cutting. Either hardboard, or better yet, some type of melamine
surface are about as smooth as you're going to get.
The saw cuts fine. The fence was trued to less than .001 its entire length,
and the top freshly waxed. The saw was ready.
I made a dry run with the blade down to see what I was in for, and found I
couldn't keep the edge on the fence. Extending the fence forward as dadOH
suggested likely would have solved it, or helped quite a bit. Once it had
about somewhat more than 2 feet of contact, I had no trouble keeping it on
the fence. The problem was getting it started and moving straight. Even with
some practice, it weaved and bobbed enough to, if it didn't kick back
outright, leave divots and burns.
The outfeed is the router table, also freshly made slicker than snot for the
occasion. The trouble was the infeed. It needed more support, which I solved
for the moment by stacking and clamping some cutoffs on the Workmate. It
supported the last 2 feet or so, behind me, while I worked as normal from
right at the table. That worked out pretty well, and was all the help I
needed. In the future, I'll look at making or buying a roller stand, or look
at Board Buddies. Maybe just focusing on walking a straight line while
pushing would have worked, but I wasn't encouraged by the first few tries.
I use two roller stands actually. One is a single roller stand that I use
left of the table saw and the other is a 13 roller stand that I use
primarily for outfeed support.
As others have mentioned, it probably comes down to practice. I use a
wheelchair so I don't walk the boards at all because I need my hands to push
the wood through while at the same time keeping it pressed against the
fence. Sometimes I need to reposition myself so I have to let go of the
wood, move to a more optimal position and then resume my cutting. Those are
the only times I might get a burned edge, but they're infrequent. And yeah,
if you can get stuff cut slightly oversize at the wood store before bringing
it home, then all the better. We make do the best we can.
Props for keeping up with the woodworking in the chair.
As to those roller stands....
The ones with multiple bearing balls don't push or direct the stock like
the ones with the single, long roller.
If you have the ones with the single long roller, I find that angling
them ever so slightly towards the fence helps keep stock against the
fence. When they angle away from the fence they try to pull the stock
Every advantage helps when you're on rollers, yourself. :-)
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
Working out of a chair is amazing and I'm counting my blessings!
Now...while I like rollers and have a couple of pairs, the most
handy dandy items in my small shop are a set of simple stands that I
made to help with the infeed side of my TS...surface areas are
four-foot long 1x3" hardwood with a strip of that slidey stuff stuck
on top (could be laminate)...ends are rounded-over and it's held to
TS height by a couple of legs with some "T" feet at the bottom with a
stretcher between 'em. These things are easy to move around with one
hand ('cause that's all about working alone, eh?) and serve as horses
of a sort when I need a work table or whatever.
Do you mean you were AT the table or you were on the right side? If the
latter and if your fence is to the right of your blade then you are on the
wrong side. You needed to be on the *left* side of the sheet so you could
keep it against the fence with your left hand and feed with your right. The
same is true of ripping anything.
I'm right handed and normally belly up to the table, taking advantage of the
butter smooth, perfectly rigid and linear delivery developed over a half
century of shooting pool to pay the rent. I can't even picture doing it from
the right of the fence. A leftie might have a different viewpoint.
I'm not sure why you're having this trouble. With a properly sized infeed
and outfeed tables and smooth surface to slide on, I've very rarely had
trouble taking slices off an 8' sheet of plywood.
I've never been able to get a lumberyard to make a clean straight cut for
me. It's been a waste of time. Home Depot with their panel saw does a little
better job, but they don't sell the veneered ply that I often buy so I can't
get it cut there.
Woks for me too.
I recently upgraded the front rail on my Delta Contractors saw to the 50"
version. Of course I had to add a longer wing to match. Then I replaced my
out feed table with one that runs the whole length of the saw. I also have a
small infeed table I built so it will quickly install in the front rail. and
I support it wit ha roller stand. I cut 4x8 sheets of 3/4" MDF all by
myself, as long as I can lift them on the table! One thing I do when cutting
full sheets is to cut the piece slightly wider than needed then make a
second pass to trim it to size. That way if I fudge up the cut I did not
screw up the piece.
Sure, that's common sense to cut a long piece slightly oversize and then
trim it to needed size. One other thing I do is use a single roller stand
just to the left of the tablesaw for added support when slicing from a full
sheet. And naturally depending on width, I try to cut wider pieces first, if
there are any.
Never tried a full sheet, don't ever intend to try. I get it cut to close on
a panel saw where I buy the plywood and make the finish cuts. Handling a
smaller sheet is not a big deal with good support. You can do the same with
a circular saw for the first cut.
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