As to lithium batteries yay or nay. Looking for a lighter drill for med/lig
ht duty. This 62 yr old with a dicey shoulder doesn't like holding a 18v
nimh makita (6lbs) for doing the job. Gee, you go online and look at the f
eedback on amazon and you'd think that between the dicey batteries,the wobb
ly and poorly clamping(the bits)chucks that all the makers can't make a dec
ent drill (and impact driver). TIA Pat
Lithium is the only way to go.
Try a 10 or 12v model they are pretty powerful.
I have a hitaci, I would recommend it for driving screws as I bought the
drill and impact. I use the impact for driving.. light and very nice.
The drill is light duty.
Or Milwakee, I have not seen dewalt really come to the table on Lithium,
and smaller units.
Where to start...
If you go Li-ion, voltage is not going to matter. All of the Li=ion
batteries are small and light weight as compared to non Li-ion.
18 volt Li-ion is probably lighter in weight than a 12 bolt non Li-ion.
As far as brand, you can't go wrong with Makita, one of the few that
still makes a quality tool. The green vs. the white Makita tools is the
Are you looking for a drill driver or an impact or one of each?
A drill/driver is going to require you to hold on to the drill and brace
for the torque. On the other side of the coin is the impact that
typically had 4 times the torque of the similar voltage driver but does
not transfer the torque back to you.
Well, the18v Li-ion are lighter than the other 18v batteries, but not
enough so that he won't feel the weight of them. As suggested, I have
to agree that the 12v tools (of any battery type) are much lighter
than their 18v brethren and that's what I'd recommend in this
Of course, the only real solution to this problem is for the OP to go
to the store and find out for himself. It's his arms that will answer
the question of what to buy.
I'll have to say that I have never seen a "full sized" Li-ion battery then,
although the 15.4v 3.0 amp Li-ion battery on my Festool drill is at least
double the size of the 18 v Li-ion on my Bosch impact. Both are feather
weights compares to the 12 v Makita 2.6 amp Ni Metal
On Fri, 15 Nov 2013 17:26:41 -0800 (PST), patrick
I love my Bosch 12V and 18V drills, drivers, and Impactors. Actually,
I have two 18V drills and Impactors (on sale they were cheaper than
On Friday, November 15, 2013 3:26:41 PM UTC-10, patrick wrote:
ight duty. This 62 yr old with a dicey shoulder doesn't like holding a 18
v nimh makita (6lbs) for doing the job. Gee, you go online and look at the
feedback on amazon and you'd think that between the dicey batteries,the wo
bbly and poorly clamping(the bits)chucks that all the makers can't make a d
ecent drill (and impact driver). TIA Pat
I use the Dewalt 12 volt max Drill/driver and impact wrench for work and t
he 12 volt max impact driver for home use and they put out. Although not d
esigned for it the impact wrench will handle 5/8 bolts with no problem.
You definitely want to stick with Li-ion because they hold their charge for
a long time and will be ready to go when you need them. Plus they are so
light and compact that I can carry the tools and spare batteries with less
weight than one Makita 18 volt drill.
You may want to look at this little impact driver -
(Amazon.com product link shortened)84597306&sr=1-2&keywords=black+and+decker+impact+driver . (Note that Amazon has it listed as the 080I ("I") instead of 0801 ("1") )
It's a new item from Black & Decker, released in Sept.-Oct.
I was on a small pre-release test team for it and it was well
received. One of the other testers did a pretty good write up
about it on the Amazon site. It may suit your needs better than
a drill/driver. It takes hex screwdriver and drill bits with a
spring-loaded chuck resembling an air hose connector. I can
easily manipulate it one-handed.
I wouldn't try to to install a deck with it or drive into concrete,
but all my screwdrivers have been gathering dust since I got
it. I ran screws all the way into SPF 2x6s without pilot holes
and into piloted sappy SYP with pilot holes - no problem. Then
tried cedar; the screws went in, and stopped when I let go of
the trigger. No bumping the trigger or running it out and back
in to get it where I wanted it. Its low vibration and weight
makes it very easy on the hands and wrist.
(I am not afilliated with B&D etc, etc. ...)
I don't think the battery chemestry is going to make that big of a
difference Pat. I'd suggest you go with a smaller voltage drill. Big
difference in the bulkiness and balance of a 12v drill compared to an 18v.
You won't go wrong with any of the name brands for light to medium use.
Hell - you won't go wrong with Harbor Freight for light to medium work.
And - the price will be a hell of a lot less.
What I've started using more and more - but simply for running in screws, is
a little 3.4v driver. It's all the power necessary for most things, is a
nimble as can be, weighs nothing at all, and fits in all kinds of small
places. I don't have drill bits for mine, but they do make them. You'd
have to buy the 1/4" shank bits because it does not have a chuck. But these
days - I grab it and only go for my 18v for really tough stuff. This little
thing is a winner.
(Sorry for duplicate post that may show up as a new topic. -J)
I'm still holding off...heard too many firsthand stories of chargers
overheating to be comfortable having one in the house or barn lest I
forget to unplug it.
Most recent story of just a couple of months ago--JD dealer here has
started carrying Milwaukee, Makita, and another one or two in new
dealership showroom besides the Green-branded stuff (the maker of whom
for them I'm not positive--need to ask Russ about that). Anyway was
looking for the LED lantern attachment to go on the existing Milwaukee
NiMH packs I have for winter backup power-outage lighting relief and
didn't have any for them, only the Li. So that naturally go to the
discussion of same and he mentioned he'd had three packs overheat and
nearly start fires on different tools/manufacturers and they had also
had trouble with some in the shop. So his take was "don't leave them
unattended" -- mine is "not taking a chance" at least yet.
I don't know what the difference really is but there does seem to be a
fundamental behavior in that they have a much higher probability of
thermal runaway occurring.
$0.02, etc., etc., etc., ...
I've been using recycled lithium batteries for the past couple years in t
hose bright chinese LED flashlights (salvaged from dead laptop battery pac
ks) and the chargers all seem to take anywhere from 3 to even 8hrs to go th
rough a complete charge to 4.02 volts(seldom drawn down past 3.5v). How the
heck do the current crop of manufacturers get a battery completely charged
in 1/2 hr? I'm guessing you are trading # of cycles for the rapid recharge
. Do any of the chargers supplied with a typical drill have a slow charge f
unction that might extend the # of cycles b4 the battery shows as defective
to an intelligent charger?
Regarding the danger of fire- the radio control guys learned the hard way
to make a fire resistant charging station such that if the battery (lithiu
m ion at that time) attempted suicide, the damage would be contained.
I'll probably spring for one of the off brand 18v batteries to allow me t
o keep using the drill.
Btw- I noticed that dewalt and milwaukee seem to have optional batteries t
hat have a higher amp/hr rating. Does the bosch and the makita offer the s
In the meantime, I'll keep looking for a drill and an impact at a decent p
rice. Thanks in advance, Pat
My Bosch and Festool Li-Ion chargers have a combination of electronics
and or fans to monitor the heat being generated during charging. From
what I under stand the circuitry in the batter packs is sume what more
complex than the standard battery pack. IIRC this circuitry is
calibrated to each cell in the battery.
It's no not so much calibration as it is protection. LiIon has a
nasty habit of bursting into flames if it's not treated well. Note
that all batteries have this problem to one degree or another. Any
time you store that much energy in a small place, bad things happen
when you let it loose suddenly.
The LiIon chargers are more complex than NiMH (which are more
complicated than NiCd) but in this age of ICs, it's all pretty simple
and cheap. Laptops do even more because they're doing a lot more
charge (as in coulombs) management in the laptop itself. The laptop
requires a "gas gauge" to do its thing maximizing run time. This
isn't true for a drill, so calibration isn't needed.
On 11/16/2013 6:31 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
What Leon was referring to is balancing technology. Which makes sure
each cell is in range, and not deviating from the others.
That is actually where most of the problems are, especially with low end
chargers. The better chargers will monitor each cell rather than the
pack and if one cell gets higher than the other it will deplete it while
bringing the others up. If they are too far out it shuts down.
Seriously, I replaced that prime cell rebuild 5 months after they
rebuilt it, and with a new one from Batteries Plus. Came with a 1 year
warranty. There is one near you, Beechnut and 610 when the time comes.
However the Li-Ion may have to come from Makita.
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