I have a cheap($100)poulin mod p3314wsa gas chain saw that .is very hard to start. When I pull on the starting rope it feels like there is way too much compression. Is this normal or what? Maybe !~m just getting old and weak. HELP Herb
Some times, removing the spark plug, and then
pull the start cord a couple times will loosen
up an old machine. If not, it helps with the
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
By hard to start, is it just the ammount of pull on the rope, or do you have
to pull the rope 10 to 20 times to get it to start ?
If it takes lots of times to pull the rope, youmay need to rebuild the
carbarator. Could be it may just need adjusting. If it is like one of my
saws, you need a special nutdriver looking tool to do it.
Does it run ok after starting ?
It depends on the saw. My Poulin takes what looks like a small nutdrive.
The shaft is hollow, but instead of a hex socket, there are about 10 or so
small splines. The screw on the carborator does not hace a slot,but the
outside of it has about 10 or so splines that match the nutdriver looking
thing. I found one of those on line.
I have an older weed eater I think it is a Homelight,but not sure as I gave
it to my son. The screws for it had a flat round head with a small hole
about 1/16 of an inch deep that is off center. For some reason they will
not sell that tool. Some of those government regulations. I removed those
screws and cut a screw slot in it with my Dremmal tool so I could adjust it.
A search for those tools will give about 3 or 4 special tools for the odd
ball screw heads.
On Thu, 26 Mar 2015 19:39:53 -0400, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Which are viewed here:
Aren't those also called external torx?
I had those on the tailgate hinges on one of my pickup trucks. I
believe it was the 88 Ford I had a few years ago.
What i dont understand is why they make all these special bolts, the
plain old hex bolts worked just fine. I think they just want to sell
more tools!!! It's just like my toolbox once had 8 or so box wrenches,
now it has DOUBLE that amount because I need both SAE and Metric. And
as my eyes get worse from old age, it seems they make the lettering
smaller on them, so I am forced to try all of them until I find one that
It seems that no matter what is manufactured these days, the end goal is
to make it as difficult and complicated as possible. This is
particularly true with vehicles and machinery, computer operating
systems, and cellphones. But it goes beyond that. Like making 3/4"
plywood 25/32 so it wont match up with the older stuff. And why does a
portable radio these days need 40 buttons and 16 knobs? They used to
work fine with three knobs (Tuning - Volume - Tone), and two switches
(Power - AM/FM).
Apparently they have all forgot the KISS method.
On Thu, 26 Mar 2015 20:55:00 -0600, email@example.com wrote:
Nope, Torx is 6 point.
BiHex or 12 point allows higher torque on a smaller head. Header bolts
and cyl head bolts are both good examples - where there isn't room for
a typical hex bolt head or nut and an "allen" head isn't practical.
Torx has better drive than philips or robertson - and even better than
allen for the same size (more linear surface area for the tool to
Then there are the "security" versions and "one way" heads that can be
tightened but not removed.
Sometimes I can understand the need for certain bolts. It sure makes things
difficult for the home owner just to keep his stuff up. I found about 6 or
more different tools just to adjust the stupid carburators on the small
They have a D a double D, Packman, those splines , the off center pin and
another one or two that I don't remember from all my searching. All to turn
a screw less than 2 inches long and about a # 10 or # 8 if they were the
American size. They calim the government makes them do that to keep the
home owner from adjusting the carbs for air polution. Don't they know
anyone can get the tools even if they have to be ordered from China off ebay
Then there is a torx screw to get the covers off to get to the carburator if
it needs to be rebuilt.
Some of the worse cars I remember are the ones that had metric and American
bolts on the same car.
Now you don't need double, but 3 or 4 times as many as the torx and reverse
torx and a few other odd balls.
As good wrenches last almost forever (often have a lifetime warrenty) I
think they come out with the new types just to sell more tools.
On Thu, 26 Mar 2015 23:43:59 -0400, "Ralph Mowery"
I dont doubt the governement makes them do this..... The gov. tends to
do everything to make life difficult, such as those crappy new gas cans.
Yea, I have one of those cars! Its a 1989 Chevy station wagon, which I
keep for it's antique value, but do still drive it one and awhile.
Working on that car is a nightmare when it comes to try to figure out
which wrench to use. Just to change the alternator belt requires both
SAE and Metric. I know that for fact, since I have done it several
times and gotten pissed off each time too. The same is true for the
many of the body bolts
I agree with that! I did pick up a kit that has all those oddball
sizes. It's just for the small ones, (1/4" nut driver bits), but it has
all the security bits, other oddballs, and all the common such as torx,
allen, phillips, etc....
One type I really do like, are the torx. When they changed from
phillips to torx on deck screws and (some) drywall screws, that was the
best thing they ever did. I cant count how many phillips bits I have
ruined over the years, or ruined the screw heads. I have never yet
ruined a torx bit, although some of my oldest ones started to get
sloppy, so I replaced them. But they sure made life easier, and there
have only been a few torx screw heads that I have ruined.
A local lumber yard has COLORED torx bits for all the sizes needed for
the standard deck screws. They cost a buck more, but that was also a
great improvement. I know exactly which one to grab, depending on the
From my understandign the phillips were suspose to torq out to prevent over
tightning. I have never liked them.
That may have worked for some, but for things like the deck screws you often
need all the power you can get. If you are in business, I can see where
colored bits will pay off.
When I was working there were a couple of tools I used out of a socket set
and painted them a color so I could just grab them. We did not have tool
boxes to carry around with us, but just a bunch of draws in the shop so we
had to carry what we thought we needed all over the plant.
I have ordered a couple of inexpensive small tool sets from China off ebay.
It is amazing how many differant small screw types there are. Not sure what
they are called, but a couple were like a 3 sided phillips. I doubt the
tools would hold up under heavy use, but for home use where I might need to
use them just a couple of times they should be beter than nothing.
On Fri, 27 Mar 2015 15:45:40 -0600, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
On those GMs, all of the metric body screws were a blue green colouer
- and virtually all of the metric screws were "oddball" metrics.
"normal" metrics, as used by the japs, are 8mm on 5mm bolts,10mm heads
on 6mm bolts,12mm on 8mm bolts, 14mm on 10mm bolts, and17mm on 12mm
bolts and 19mm on 14mm bolts.
The "squareheads" add 7mm bolts with 11mm heads, and use 13mm instead
of 12mm on the 8mm bolts. and 17mm on 10mm bolts, 19mm on 12mm, and
22 on 14.
Ansi/iso throws 16, 18 and 21 into the mix.
When I started working on Metric Toyotas back in 1970, all I needed
was 8,10,12,14,17,19, and 22mm.
In a pinch, a 9/16 inch could sub for 14mm (.55 inch) a 11/16" could
fill in for a 17mm (.669") and a 3/4" worked for 19mm (.748") and a
13/16"s a snug fit on a 21mm (.826")
A 3/4 inch worked on 22mm (.866")
In the Din/Ansi world a 7/16" would work for 11mm (.433")
On 03/27/2015 12:55 AM, email@example.com wrote:
KISS principle is yesterday's soup du jour.
Most corporations typically roll out a new "Program of the Month" about every three years.
It gives the many layers of management something easy and measurable to do to justify their 6-figure existence.
The company I worked for did that at one time. Toward the last 10 years it
sort of stopped. The business had turned down so I don't think they had the
money to waste on that sort of thing.
I just thought that about every 4 years a new class of college students came
through and they had to have some kind of idea to justify a job for them.
On Tuesday, March 24, 2015 at 1:29:31 PM UTC-5, herb white wrote:
to start. When I pull on the starting rope it feels like there is way too
much compression. Is this normal or what? Maybe !~m just getting old and w
eak. HELP Herb
I was in here posting and noticed this post. I'll just mention this - it m
ay be worthless but ... twice (lawn mower and saw) this has fixed things fo
There is a key on the flywheel, maybe not on your unit, that holds the posi
tion of the wheel on the power shaft. The key is designed to break away.
If it is damaged (bent), even a little bit, the wheel's position changes ev
er so slightly and the magnet, attached to it, arrives late/early to the ma
gneto or spark timing circuit. If your saw has such an arrangement, look
at the key (keyway?). I replaced mine and it was night and day.
This may have NOTHING to do with your unit. I was just so surprised at the
effect of a sightly off position flywheel I thought I mention it.
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