Specifically, don't know, but I would really doubt they have enough
impact/torque to do much good on an over-torqued lug nut (as is usually
the case if a tire shop did it -- seems like they universally just set
their wrenches on "max". :( ).
I keep a long breakover in the car for the purpose -- I _know_ it will
work when needed...
I got some new tires recently at WalMart. After the hippie seemingly
finished, I asked if the car was ready to go. "Just a minute," the hippie
said and disappeared.
Presently the hippie returned with the auto parts manager who was carrying a
torque wrench. The manager proceded to test each lug nut. As he was doing
so, the hippie oozed over to me and said: "Company policy. We have to have a
second person set your bolts. Walmart doesn't want your nuts to fall off!"
He was then dissolved into uncontrollable giggles.
I was pleased WalMart was concerned about my nuts.
I wonder why? Do they think over torquing is better/safer?
I would think that the spec is set to both ensure safety as far the lug
nuts not coming off and protection of the threads on the lug nut and or
I'm guessing the installers don't even consider the possibility of
damaging the nuts/studs and just assume tighter is better.
Of course, this is all coming from a guy who tightens his lug nuts
until they squeek. "Man, they sure sound tight!" <g>
I'd rather have neither. It sucks getting a flat tire and being unable to
put the spare on because some asshole overtorqued the lugnuts. I don't
appreciate hiking back to civilization especially in bad weather.
BTW: All the discount tires shops I've seen use torque wrenches. (at least in
colorado and arizona. I don't know about elsewhere)
It sucks even more to have a wheel fall off at 70 mph due to under
torqued nuts. On a return trip from Philadelphia to Buffalo quite a
few years ago, we had to stop due to a severe wobble in one of the
rear wheels. Turns out that three of the bolts had already failed
and the remaining two were barely hanging on. I shudder to think
what might have happened had we gone just a few more miles.
That's been my recent experience around Chicago, although I don't
know if it's a universal thing.
You can be unable to generate 350ft-lbs. of torque with the jack that comes
with the car. I've jumped up and down on the end of the tire-iron and still
been unable. Sorry. I only weigh 200 lbs and can only generate
200-300ft-lbs of torque when I'm jumping down on the end of a 9" tire iron.
You put the tire-iron on the nut, handle-sticking out sideways,
to the right. Then you put the jack under the end of the handle
and crank it up. You might have an issue if the jack handle
is the same hunk of metal as the tire-iron, but that's
not usually the case, anymore.
Having a 3' hunk of blackpipe in the car
is still a better solution, though.
In article <slrneo3ajf.l92.aznomad.2@ip70-176-155-
I can put a *lot* of torque on a lug with a cross lug-wrench.
Stand on one end while lifting the other puts a tun on torque on
the nut, while making sure there is no lateral torque on the
"Good" is the operative word here. A good
1-bend tire iron won't slip of the lugs,
and a good cross-iron won't freaking twist
into a pretzel and snap the socket off the
bar on you. Both of which I've had happen
with cheap equipment.
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