"Good" is the operative word here. A good
1-bend tire iron won't slip of the lugs, and a good cross-iron won't freaking twist into a pretzel and snap the socket off the bar on you. Both of which I've had happen with cheap equipment.
Having one that fits the lug nuts; priceless.
-- Oren
"Well, it doesn't happen all the time, but when it happens, it happens constantly."
Jim Yanik posted for all of us...
Run Forest, RUN
So was I. Anything more will warp the rotors.
An 'l' iron will still put a lateral torque on the lug and tend to slip on the nut. Get a decent 'X' iron and put it under the spare, You do have a full sized spare...
Yep, but cheaper better. Figure on rotors for every brake job. It's not a biggie if you do the work yourself, but check out what the shops charge for those $15 rotors. Midas, anyone?
I've had jacks (more than one) that didn't have any surface that was usable for something like that. One example was the one that had nothing but a hook on its business end for hooking into a slot on the car.
The limiting factor is usually the socket on the lugnut. An adult jumping down on a tire iron can produce over 200 ft-lbs of force assuming it didn't slip off, but 30-40 ft-lbs is probably a typical maximum before a cheap tool slips off.
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