Wood glue

Gorilla glue? Indoors or outdoors?

Indoors.

There seems to be a vast range of things called Gorilla glue these days including one which looks like ordinary PVA wood glue. Apart from the price.

The one that looks a bit like dark honey is the PU expanding one, it does fill gaps, but not high strength is it's all gap and no contact area.

Best wood glue where it stays dry is PVA. If it doesn't, epoxy is 100% waterproof, unlike most. Re clamping, can you not screw them together?

NT

PU glue foams and fills gaps. If you don't have suitable clamps it's very easy to make cawls. Saw a few pieces of wood so they are slightly bow-shaped on one side and long enough to span the boards you want to glue. Once the boards are together put them on a flat surface and the curved side of the cawls on the top. Clamp the ends of the cawls on to the flat surface - this applies pressure to the central area and then, as the cawls are tightened, the pressure spreads to the outer edge. If you don't have a way of clamping the cawls then a simple windlass will do the job.

Gorilla aka PU foam if large area and/or not too much strength required.

Otherwise epoxy.

Foamed PU glue unfortunately has sod all strength. PVA makes a stronger joint. There's also casein.

NT

If you need gap filling, then epoxy.

I have some of the Gorilla PVA stuff, and it seems significantly less runny than the usual. I've found this useful.

Cheers

As I keep repeating car body filler - loaded polyester resin - is FAR easier for amateurs to get good results with.

Epoxy is for people who understand it, and that takes time.

I am a great fan of casein. A bit more fiddly, but good.

- until you try to get it off fingers and carpet.

It seems to bond panels quite well, which is what the OP wanted to do.

I have blue container of waterproof PVA, as opposed to the green container which is PVA for indoor use only.

Don't window fitters use it to fix UPVC frames where the brickwork is poor ?.

I've used it outdoors too. But waterproofness it doesn't have a lot of.

NT

That's what I meant. It should be fine indoors and IME is reasonably strong, although obviously it all depends on the stresses. I used it for a semi permanent "gate" to keep dogs off the upper lawn, and it is fine for that. Things like filling gaps in not very accurately cut angled lap joints, because it was all made from sawn, treated timber, so "proper" carpentry practice did not apply (also it was a quick and dirty job).

I was going to say, for higher strength use epoxy (but I see John has already said that!)

Agreed, but horses for courses, they both have their place. And epoxy isn't all that difficult to learn. And I'd still say that for non-critical or concealed stuff the foaming Gorilla is useful. Squirt in, clamp, wait for it to expand and cure, cut or sand off excess.