wiring electric cooker

I rewired the house but never needed a cooker point, new cooker has an e oven which needs 32 amp supply, so its take a radial off the fuse box on a spare connection, through a 32 amp switch to a cooker control plate, the fitters then do the rest when they arrive. Have I missed anything?

Reply to
The Reid
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Following up to The Reid

a supplementary, are there regs about where the control switch should be located?

Reply to
The Reid

Have you used the correct gauge of T&E (I believe it's 4sq mm capable of handling 45Amps) for the radial serving a cooker switch and the 3-pole connector box? The 45A double-pole isolating switch should be visible and operatable alongside the e-oven/e-hob housing, but the terminations can be hidden neatly at rear. Crucial....Has your incoming supply the correctly fused capacity for the extra amperage load? You may need to check this detail with your household mains supplier. Worst-case scenario could be running a full 8kW oven, a 2.5kW kettle, a 3kW immersion element, a 3kW room heater, a 8kW shower, a 1.3kW iron, etc simultaneously.

Reply to
Jim Gregory

Hopefully Part Pee, being a kitchen. ;-)

Otherwise sounds fine.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Following up to Jim Gregory

Right, no drastic positioning requirements then. I have 45Amp cable but its only 32Amp required (its a mainly gas cooker) although on second thoughts it might be better to work to the higher standard for future use.

But I'm now looking at part P of the 2005 Building Regs, on first reading it looks like a new cooker socket has to be done by accredited electrician?

I'll look at this side.

Reply to
The Reid

within 2mtrs of the appliance

Reply to
powerstation

Following up to Dave Plowman (News)

Well yes, having researched more I note the cable I have bought is marked "new colours blah blah" and it looks as if you are supposed to get this work done by a professional?

Reply to
The Reid

New colours, my foot - they are the same ones introduced around 1968 for mains leads and cords! The old black and red have been phased out in installation T and E sheathed cables. Not sure about single colours run in conduit.

Reply to
Jim Gregory

I know I slipped up earlier when mentioning 4 sq mm and it should have been 6sq mm gauge for 32A in conduit, 35A in cavity wall, that's 8kW max

Same height as outlets sited above w'tops and under-wall units. Good planning. Thicker gauge has a lower voltage drop and is ready for powering something more demanding later.

I did mine myself 4 years ago after I had checked up on 16th edtn of Regs. If you have a split-load consumer unit which is modular and it has spare ways, what's the prob? You could always get an accredited electrician to check your works.

You should, or the supply company's fuse could blow in the extreme, and there is probably a yuppy-set-down charge for the call-out for replacing this, not to mention the time spent unpowered and unlit! When we added a shower and an electric oven, after notifying the company, ours was upgraded (from 60A to 80A, I believe).

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Reply to
Jim Gregory

Following up to Jim Gregory

4 years ago appears to be different from Jan 2005, I need to read more!
Reply to
The Reid

Following up to Jim Gregory

they do look rather familiar! But presumably they are new to mains wiring?

Reply to
The Reid

No.

I would be very surprised if your supply fuse blew just because you add an oven.

No you dont need to get a pro to do it, but you should of course do it competently, or let someone else who will. Amateur or pro has nothing to do with it.

NT

Reply to
meow2222

New colours are a non issue from a part P POV. They were introduced before part P came into force, and the old ones are still acceptable. So looking at the cable does not automatically infer a job was done before or after P day.

You are supposed[1] to either submit a building notice (and jump through whatever hoops building control come up with - each region seems to invent their own rules in this respect), or, use an electrician who is a paid up member of one of the "approved" clubs. (It does not seem to mater if he is competent or not!)

[1] In the same way you are supposed to drive at 70 or less on the motorway ;-)
Reply to
John Rumm

Reply to
Jim Gregory

Nothing really... I expect building control themselves must be getting rather fed up with nanny heaping on ever more things completely unrelated to building for them to keep tabs on like changing boilers, flues, upgrading heating controls, replacing windows etc.

before undertaking risk).

I expect it is more the lets see if we can flush out some of the "invisible" traders into the glare of HMRC headlights ;-)

Under new government rules they are to be banned. Skilled people that can think for themselves seem to worry them. ;-)

Point Of View

Reply to
John Rumm

Following up to snipped-for-privacy@care2.com

so your saying the 2005 regs have no impact on DIY wiring, are you?

Reply to
The Reid

Following up to John Rumm

indeed, I don't fancy just ringing someone up and hoping they do a good job.

I'm pretty sure I have some old ring main cable in the loft.

Reply to
The Reid

The message from The Reid contains these words:

The doommongers would have us believe that you won't be able to sell your house if you ignore Part P while the pragmatic seem to think that no buyer would be at all concerned provided the job is done properly. Just don't get caught. :-)

Reply to
Roger

Following up to Roger

I completed it in December, don't know why I'm asking.

One thing slightly concerns me, total load and the main fuse as was mentioned, I hadn't given it any thought:- I will have,

W/machine Cooker (two ovens, no hob) Electric Shower PC and usual small stuff.

2 fridge/freezers No water heating or room heating, no, one electric radiator!

That cant be too much, can it?

Reply to
The Reid

Most competent DIYers will simply ignore them. Unless doing up a house for re-sale, etc. The chances of wiring alterations/additions being picked up by a surveyor several years down the line are remote.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

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