MK Cooker Unit wiring

Hi all, I have bought an MK 45amp/13amp cooker switch (with the 13amp socket) and was wondering if I needed 2 mains feeds to feed this socket.

The socket has 2 live and 2 neutral connections on the back, but I only have the cooker ring main coming from the wall. Can I use this to connect to the 13amp as well?

Regards,

Toby.

Reply to
mkkbb
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On 18 May 2007 07:25:05 -0700 someone who may be mkkbb wrote this:-

No.

I doubt very much if you have a cooker ring main coming from the wall.

If you look at the terminals you will undoubtedly see that one set are marked with some words like SUPPLY and one set are marked with LOAD, or something similar.

If it is not clear to you what these two sets of terminals are for then you are not competent to fit the unit.

Reply to
David Hansen

No, one feed - it will need to be a dedicated radial circuit from the consumer unit.

The socket is connected internally in the fitting. You should have L & N in, and L & N out for the cooker.

Before you go too far you need to assess if the cable (and circuit breaker) you have is suitable for the cooker in question.

Reply to
John Rumm

First there's no such thing as a 'cooker ring main'. If it is a ring with two 2.5mm TW&E cables it's not suitable for a cooker switch.

This type of switch is designed for a radial circuit - only one TW&E cable feeding it, rather than a ring which has two. It also uses heavier gauge cable - usually 6 or 10mm.

The 13 amp socket is internally connected to the same circuit.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

The connection from the switch to the cooker: is it cable or flex (can you get 6mm flex?)?

I've got a built-in cooker to attach in the near future.

Reply to
F

On Sun, 20 May 2007 21:25:15 +0100, F mused:

Yep.

Reply to
Lurch

If the cooker is movable, it should be flex, but in practice it never is.

If it's built-in, T&E is fine.

The connections to a cooker need to be of very high quality, or they will overheat and might start a fire.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

It's built-in and so should only need to be moved once - when it's installed.

T&E it is then: thanks.

Reply to
F

[embarrased] I am competent at wiring, just never wired a cooker switch before, and it'll teach me to try to second guess the terminals looking at it through the packaging. I couldn't see the LOAD and SUPPLY written on the back, but now I have opened it it is much clearer.

Thanks for your replies anyway ;-)

Reply to
mkkbb

On 22 May 2007 04:05:06 -0700 someone who may be mkkbb wrote this:-

I am surprised that there is no marking on an MK unit. They are usually very good at marking terminals. Certainly their other switches, for example in switched fused connection units, have all terminals marked.

Reply to
David Hansen

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