Dad is concerned with all the wet weather, that if the garage gets damp, it's going to take the electrics out, which further up the line has a chest freezer on it.
He picked up a garage unit from Screwfix, and asked me how to wire it. I **WAS** quite confident I knew (see linked pic).
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Problem is (and what's thrown me), is the spare pin in the bus-bar. What's the point of the insulation shroud, if there is a pin to get a shock from?
Am I missing something obvious, or doubting my own ability? (apologies for the old-skool wiring colors)
Thanks.
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T
Toby
That image doesn't seem to be loading for me?
M
MarkG123
Try this link
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Robin
Me neither (Firefox 26 in XP SP3) but it downloads then opens OK so I suspect it's Google not playing nicely with what they see as the hoi polloi
I think the problem is that the CU is not full but the busbar has been left uncut (or not cut enough). Best though for the OP *not* to cut it until someone better than me says so - the more so as the shield doesn't seem to be covering the busbar as well as I'd expect!
T
Toby
Yep, that works.
That is for a third MCB, if you don't have one to fit, then there should be a cover on the space on the front to stop it getting touched.
M
MarkG123
It there me, as everything shown was supplied but not fitted. Seemed odd to supply a bus bar that supported more mcb than they supplied, so much that it made me question my sanity
M
MarkG123
It threw me, as everything shown was supplied but not fitted. Seemed odd to supply a bus bar that supported more mcb than they supplied, so much that it made me question my sanity
T
Toby
I expect it is the same kit when you order one with three MCB's - less for them to do when assembling the kit.
I would probably not cut it off, and maybe wrap it in insulation tape, for future expansion ;)
J
John Rumm
The CU has provision for three MCBs in total, and is pre-poulated with two. The front cover should have a blanking plate to stop joe public sticking his finger in there once the lid is on. If however you are working on it live and open, then you will need to take care not to go prodding that bit!
(if you are sure you will never need the extra way then you can trim the bus bar vertically to the left of the next finger along).
or the mixture of old and new even ;-)
Loads of other relevant stuff that may help:
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Roger Mills
As others have said, it's for a third breaker.
I know it's sold by SF as a garage CU, but it's far from ideal. Trouble is that both circuits are off a single RCD. If a faulty power tool trips the RCD, you lose the lighting circuit too - and potentially dangerous machinery may still be spinning in the dark.
B
Bob Minchin
That is for another MCB. When the top cover is fitted there should be a blanking piece to fill the gap where the third MCB could/would be fitted. For a few quid you could bung in a third MCB which would cover the offending tab
R
Robin
And a 16A might be immediately useful if the garage sockets ain't on a ring?
D
dennis
The last cu I purchased had a bus bar too long to fit, you just cut them to length.
D
dennis
If its subbed off another cu it may well already have a single rcd protecting it so both circuits are liable to trip anyway.
B
Bill Wright
which further up the line has a chest freezer on it.
Cut it off neatly. It's just wrong.
Bill
J
Johny B Good
Don't forget that this is a view only a 'qualified electrician' should have access to. Once the cover (with CB blanking plate) has been refitted, it's all perfectly fine.
The 'qualified electrician' will know to use the 40A 2 pole isolator switch to disconnect that three pronged busbar before attempting to install a third CB (I'd expect the cover is designed to require the isolator switch to be in the off position before it can be removed anyway -BICBW in _this_ case).
The experienced 'qualified electrician' will also know to verify that the isolator switch _has_ actually disconnected the live by using his trusted meter or neon screwdriver (after verifying that his chosen instrument of test is still capable of indicating the presence of mains voltage before switching off).
It should really come as no surprise that removing the safety cover off any consumer unit _will_ reveal exposed and accessable live metalwork. Admittedly, in this case, that clipped on bit of plastic seems a little pointless considering the approved handling practice by the 'qualified electrician' when working on such kit is supposed to prevent such 'accidental contact' as seems to be its purpose.
P
PeterC
That's why mine is from the main CU's 100mA side, then the lights direct from a 6A MCB and the sockets from a 16A MCB on a 30mA RCD. It's never happened, but if a socket trips the lights should stay on.
A
admin
Garage Doors in Maidstone :
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Nightjar
On 11/02/2014 23:42, Johny B Good wrote: ...
or, as this is only 230v, the back of a finger.
Colin Bignell
J
John Rumm
No, best avoided - I hear the people that run it are a bunch of spamming d******ds.
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