Wiring a Garage consumer unit.



And a 16A might be immediately useful if the garage sockets ain't on a ring?
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Robin
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MarkG123 wrote:

which further up the line has a chest freezer on it.

Cut it off neatly. It's just wrong.
Bill
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wrote:

Don't forget that this is a view only a 'qualified electrician' should have access to. Once the cover (with CB blanking plate) has been refitted, it's all perfectly fine.
The 'qualified electrician' will know to use the 40A 2 pole isolator switch to disconnect that three pronged busbar before attempting to install a third CB (I'd expect the cover is designed to require the isolator switch to be in the off position before it can be removed anyway -BICBW in _this_ case).
The experienced 'qualified electrician' will also know to verify that the isolator switch _has_ actually disconnected the live by using his trusted meter or neon screwdriver (after verifying that his chosen instrument of test is still capable of indicating the presence of mains voltage before switching off).
It should really come as no surprise that removing the safety cover off any consumer unit _will_ reveal exposed and accessable live metalwork. Admittedly, in this case, that clipped on bit of plastic seems a little pointless considering the approved handling practice by the 'qualified electrician' when working on such kit is supposed to prevent such 'accidental contact' as seems to be its purpose.
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On 11/02/2014 23:42, Johny B Good wrote: ...

or, as this is only 230v, the back of a finger.
Colin Bignell
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Johny B Good wrote:

You can get the front cover off most CUs without turning off the main switch. The real work of art is removing or adding MCBs without turning the power off. Removing MCBs is usually harder than fitting them when the power is on.
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Adam



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Garage Doors in Maidstone : www.maidstonegaragedoors.co.uk
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On 12/02/2014 10:36, snipped-for-privacy@maidstonegaragedoors.co.uk wrote:

No, best avoided - I hear the people that run it are a bunch of spamming dickheads.
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On 12/02/2014 16:35, John Rumm wrote:

Is that the company with the email address snipped-for-privacy@sdtradesmen.co.uk?
If so, I head that too.
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On 12/02/2014 16:35, John Rumm wrote:

I just emailed them via their website and told them as much. Couldn't help chuckle that they'd got a 'captcha' form on the email submission - presumably to reduce spam. The irony!
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On 11/02/2014 14:25, MarkG123 wrote:

You've drawn two phase (live) conductors leaving the CU but only one neutral conductor returning to the CU.
Your qualified electrician can't join the neutrals somewhere in the garage and run one neutral back to the CU. The two circuits leaving the CU have to be kept separate from each other and must return to the CU on their own neutrals. (Wiring reg 314-01-04.)
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Graham Nye
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replying to MarkG123 , Rick Barton wrote:

it's going to take the electrics out, which further up the line has a chest freezer on it.

**WAS** quite confident I knew (see linked pic).

the point of the insulation shroud, if there is a pin to get a shock from?

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*If* there was another MCB then I guess the shroud would do a moderately good job of shielding the live terminals but given that with just a smidgen of determination you could electrocute yourself from multiple points within that unit, I'm not sure why you're worried by that unshielded terminal (that will be out of harm's way once you've closed the box up).
Tim
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On 11/04/2015 22:44, Rick Barton wrote:

Well since he started this little job in 2014, one must assume if Mark doesn't reply................
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On 11/04/15 22:44, Rick Barton wrote:

The shroud is a nicety - to reduce the contact area should you need to work while some other circuits are powered.
However, for this example of 2 breakers, and I woudl say, for any domestic case, there is not reason at all you should be working in a CU with a live busbar.
I would not cut the spare off - you may need to add a new breaker one day. It's quite safe when the enclosure is on.
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On Sat, 11 Apr 2015 21:44:01 +0000, Rick Barton wrote:

usp=sharing

I've seen instructions for things like this in the past, and they've said 'cut off the excess busbar'.
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Bob Eager wrote:

What do people think of wrapping the excess in insulating tape? Or shrink-wrap tubing?
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Mike Barnes
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Mike Barnes wrote:

If it's a secondary CU in a garage, presumably anyone sensible would find it easy enough to isolate at the primary CU before working on it? Let Darwin have a chance at the rest ...
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On 12/04/15 11:32, Mike Barnes wrote:

Pointless mostly.
Tape - no. if you use the way, your prong is now covered in sticky stuff.
Heatshrink - tricky unless you do it before you install the bar.
A bit of heavy sleeve that is a tightish fit would be OK if you really want to.
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On Saturday, 11 April 2015 22:44:03 UTC+1, Rick Barton wrote:

This job was done a year ago. If he did go back & follow your advice, he'd create a rough sharp edge & conductive swarf. Tinsnips are way quicker.
NT
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On 12/04/2015 13:38, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Problem is (and what's thrown me), is the spare pin in the bus-bar.

What makes you think the bus-bar can't be removed and hacksawed on a bench.
That way your conductive swarf could be kept away from the box.
It is also possible to file off sharp corners.
Your tinsnips are better than mine!
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