We're thinking of getting a new range cooker (all electric). Currently
theres a 30 amp (possibly 35 amp) cable into the kitchen and the 32 amp ring
main. I know that for a seperate oven and hob usually the hob is wired to
the cooker cable through an isolation switch and often the ovens to the ring
main through a 16 amp plug or simular.
What happens with these large range cookers, I added the power comsumption
on one and it came to a total of 67 A if all things where switched on. Would
that need a new cable to the consumer unit or does it take power from both
the cooker spur and the ring main? Also what happens in a normal house with
single phase electrics, if your cooking a large lunch and some decides to
have a shower with a 10kw shower (40 amps) thats goign to max out the 80 amp
trip and the 100 amp consumer fuse. Presumable the trip just cuts the power
on overload. Must cause a problem or are most modern houses that use
electric for cooking 3 phase these days.
Its practically impossible to run a new cable back to the consumer unit, so
I am wondering how this limits our choice of cooker.
Ee by goom! Just a mo? That don't sound right, some how?
What's the point of buying all the bells and whistles if you
can't use them.
We've often had four boilers on the hobs on top, and stuff in the
oven; for several hours at a time.
Let's see our common or garden, bog standard 30 inch North
American stove has IIRC, 2 x 1250 hobs and 2 x 750 hobs and a 6
kilowatt oven, c'ept when it is first heating up the oven when
the broiler eleemnt also comes on for a while. That's about 10
kilowatts, all on at same time. Roughly 40-45 amps. With a 60 amp
plug and socket behind the cooker wired with #6 AWG to a
dedicated 60 amp breaker back at the CU. Has worked fine for some
30+ years. Although our stove has been replaced with similar
model during that time; twice.
Typical price these days for a new absolutely basic 30 inch
cooker at moment is around $500 to $700 Can. Roughly say, with
sales tax, 300 UK pounds. However fancier models, can go up to
$1500; stainless steel for example even more! Competition between
some of the 'big box' stores has been good and prices have
actually come down during the last ten years or so.
In typical domestic service (not including the way we have
treated ours!) a typical unit will last 20 to 30 years.
But no trouble for do it youselfers like myself to get a used one
in good condition (and they are simple to fix) when people are
Some friends bought an all-electric range type cooker, with 5 "rings", a
warming area, two ovens and a separate double grill. The way the
controls are designed won't allow for all the items to be on at once.
The 5th ring won't operate if all the other 4 are on, and the "grill"
can't be selected if both ovens are on.
This is a "domestic" model rather than a commercial one though, which is
They have a large kitchen and admitted that they only bought it for the
looks anyway, neither of them actually "cook" :-)
Anyone who actually cooks wouldn't buy a 'range cooker' anyway, none
of the ones we looked at (or asked about) were really particularly
good cookers. We bought 'separates' because it allowed us to get
nearer to what we wanted at a rather lower price, though cost wasn't a
particularly important factor.
Yep 16kw, the one I used as an example has 5 rings on the top and 3
ovens/heaters. I didnt say this was needed, obversly if its there you have
to make sure theres some failsafe in case soemone decides to switch it all
one at once.
Yep agreed as its > 60 amps needs a 100 amp cable.
As I said its more than the 100 amp company fuse, however doens the rcd trip
(80 amp) in a standard consumer unit have over load protection?
As I said this is the problem, what link in the chain prevents this. I fidn
it odd as theres cookers are quite popular and so are electric showers so
surely theres some kind of preventative feature in the chain.
Just to be clear - the diversity calculations are different if the
premises are non-domestic (e.g. a guest house, hotel or commercial
I'm only pointing that out in case someone listens in to this thread
and makes the wrong calculation.
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You rate the MCB not on the cooker load, but on the grade of cable going
to it. The purpose of the MCB is to prevent cables catching fire, so if
its decent grade cooker cable 45A or 50A MCB is in order.
Exactly, so put te biggest MCB teh cabkle will stand, and vbuy eh cooker.
Trust me - and ohers - you will never ever have everything flat out. You
would die of heat exhaustion in the kitchen if you did :-)
Having come late into this thread, you would find it very hard to get
anywhere like 80A drawn by most domestic cookers - in the old days of fuses
they were usually never fed through anything higher than 60A!
It is all about statistical loading as most hotplates and the oven have
thermostats. You would find it difficult to turn them all on at once, and by
the time you turned the later ones on the earlier ones would have started to
heat and the current drawn would have dropped.
The 80 amp was anothe rpoint that I remarked, in that with a cooker and an
electric shower or other high load device they could combined reach the 80
amp rating of a normal consumer RCD.
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