I need to make up a fairly complex shaped lead flashing to go around a
pipe tomorrow. I fancy having a go at soldering the seams. I saw a
programme on TV a couple of years ago when this was being done using a
narrow strip of lead offcut as the solder but can't remember if any flux
Is it necessary and if so what should I use? I have some Baker's Fluid
and ordinary core solder as used in electronic work.
Thanks In advance
Scrape the oxide off before starting. Multicore should work, as would the
plumbers solder and plumbers flux paste. I wouldn't use offcuts though as you
would be welding rather than soldering! Plumbers solder will be "lead free" so
have a higher melting point than multicore. I think Bakers' fluid (Zinc
chloride solution with a bit of glycerine & alcohol?) will work but less
convenient than pastes?
The correct way to work lead flashing is by welding using oxyacetylene. No
flux is used.
Cut a 10mm strip of lead to use as a filler rod. Remove the oxide from both
surfaces using a paint scraper. For a butt joint, make sure that the
surfaces join snugly. Mark a 6mm strip each side of the joint on the upper
surface and shave the oxide off these. Then weld.
Lap joints, mark a 6mm strip either side of the visible join and clean off
oxide, and also 6mm strips on the mating surfaces and clean. Then weld.
"oxyacetylene"? Please?? An ordinary blow torch and ordinary solder and
flux will do at a push. Many used sticks of grade D solder and "wiped"
around the joint to tidy it up.
You can use no flux, as many did, by "lead burning". You need a directional
burner on the blow torch and know what you are doing, otherwise lots of
melted lead about.
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Yes Please Bill! Thanks for your kind offer
My application is not strictly flashing. I am replaceing shiplap cladding on
my house by vertical clay tiling. The overflows from the two tanks in my loft
used to simply protrude through drilled holes in the shiplap. I want to avoid
drilling the tiles and so I want to weld an open fronted lead box through
which the pipes enter from the back and will protrude as far as the back of
the tiles. The box will fit in between the tiling battens, and sealed to the
pipes with silicone. I'll be putting in lead soakers behind the tiles in the
regioon of the box. In the event of an overflow, the water will enter the box,
run down over the soakers and appear as a wet patch indicating a problem. So
normally the box will be dry and behind the tiles protected from the weather
but I'd like to think of it properly welded ready for the day when it is
needed. Below the tiling I have flat roof extension with giuttering to take
away the water.
I'm quite sure my scheme is not the approved way but I think it meets the
spirit of the regs as it indicates the problem and will keep the house dry and
will look a lot nicer than pipes sticking out.
Err.... "Best quality hard white tallow. Jointing compound for use when
joining threaded conduit pipe.", and sure enough, that's what we used to
use it for in the maintenance electricians dept. 'orrible smell too.
The uk.d-i-y FAQ is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk /
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On Sat, 26 Jul 2003 21:41:35 UTC, Dave Plowman
: IIRC, it's easier to use plumber's metal which is a solder with a lower
: (slightly) melting point than lead.
All solder - well, all lead-based solder - has a lower melting point
than lead! The joys of eutectic alloys ...
Umm you won't find many candles made from tallow. Candles are made from
paraffin wax (the majority) and beeswax (particularly church candles).
The only tallow candles I am aware of are sold for expedition use
because they have the advantage of being edible.
Tallow is available in tubs from Screwfix and others.
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