I want to make a section of lead flashing to wrap around an external corner. This requires a soldered joint or two but I can't find out how to do it. I'm a fairly experienced DIYer and not afraid to learn something new. Can anyone tell me how to join two pieces of lead please? Thanks
I want to make a section of lead flashing to wrap around an external corner. This requires a soldered joint or two but I can't find out how to do it. I'm a fairly experienced DIYer and not afraid to learn something new. Can anyone tell me how to join two pieces of lead please? Thanks
In article , alterego writes
Err' 'um solder?.
Plumbers solder should do the trick, and a small gas blowlanp. Practise well on some scrap first. Solder is a mix of tin and lead so the melting point is slightly lower than lead alone, but theres not much in it so be very careful not to melt the whole shooting match.....
I'm not an expert by any means, but most lead joints tend to be just sort of bent double, interleaved, then dressed 'flat'.
To solder lead isn't difficult, but you need special solder called plumber's metal which melts at a lower temperature. And to be very careful not to melt the lead. Otherwise, it's the same as soldering anything.
I know that this causes corrosion in the case of lead-acid batteries.
You get corrosion between the solder and the lead.
I don't know if this happens with flashing in air.
as I did, putting a neat hole in some valley flashing :-)
eventually I resorted to sticking a patch on with leadmate from screwfix and, so far, it's still stuck & still waterproof.
RT
=============== You also need the correct flux - ask at your plumbers' merchants when you buy the solder.
The 'lapped' joint described above (by another poster) is probably the best way to go unless there are special circumstances.
Cic.
The plumbers I have seen doing this used a oxy / aceteline kit with a special torch which gave a very small and precise flame, they used lead bars as the filler - not solder, the end result was superb.
They did not use blow lamp style heating probably because of the area of heat you get from it - although the oxy / acetelyne can be hotter it is far more precise and controllable. I suppose it depends on how much you are doing. What might give the required heat and precision is one of the small gas powered soldering irons - some heve small burner attachments, might be worth buying one and practicing on some scrap lead.
I used Fluxite - which is a fairly standard engineer's - rather than electronic - flux, and that worked ok.
Yes. A skilled lead worker seems to be able to do most things without soldering. I found it easier than all that beating. ;-)
Well I've used plumbers solder in the past and its been fine. Lead is OK too except that it melts at the same temp, so unless your "very" careful!
Still the art is in that small flame as described you don't want to melt more then U have too.
Never known it to corrode at all...
In message , tony sayer writes
No, just lead ....
It conducts the heat away quite efficiently, so you do need a decent flame
A big mess, with a blow-lamp - you will get on better with a soldering iron, if you can get one to fit your lamp. If not, a chunk of brass, or bog copper soldering iron that you heat up, or a big electric soldering iron will bne better. You need a *small* but hot flame for lead work.
J.B.
Thanks all for replies. Lapping the joint isn't really a practical option because of the complexity of the shape which runs in three dimensions. Leadmate is an option and I've already ordered some but will try soldering first. Practice is obviously the key so I'll have a go with my small gas blowlamp and see what sort of mess I can make of it. Much appreciate the advice. Bob
I managed fine with my trusty old Camping Gaz blowlamp. Pros use other types because of lower running costs - not necessity.
IMHO, that's a recipe for burning straight through it for the not so skilled. An ordinary blowlamp works just fine - you move it back and forth across a small section of the part to be soldered.
Advice well received Jerry. I have a piece of brass rod about 15mm thick and 25cm long which I will cut to provide a shaped tip and add a heatproof handle! I presume I only need a block about 50 mm long as anything much bigger will take forever to heat up. regards Bob
Just to let anyone still following this thread that my home made soldering iron worked a treat. Bought lead flashing and solder wire from Wickes. Applied flux to joints and heated iron with gas blowlamp until able to melt solder. Then applied iron to edges of joint and allowed solder to run onto lead. Then reheated iron and "smoothed over" the rather blobby solder so that it ran into joint. End result may not be the neatest piece of soldering ever seen but it's sturdy and weatherproof. When it's on my roof I'm sure the appearance will be secondary. Thanks for the help. Bob
In article , alterego writes
Well lets have a picture then:))
For moderate values of weatherproof. You _may_ see cracking problems with a soldered joint in roofing lead, especially if you used 60/40 solder (or hopefully not, lead-free solder for potable water ) - that's why it should really be welded (aka lead burning).
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