Kitchen switches (oven, hob and hood)

Hi, can anyone help. I'm wiring my kitchen from scratch, but am confused on the regulations for the switches for the oven, hob and hood.

I understand the oven switch needs to be easily accessible, does this mean it HAS to be above the worktop?

Do the hob and hood also have to be easily accessible, or can these be in a cupboard (still accessible though)?

I have download the "Document P - Electrical Safety" document, but it doesn't state the requirements for these. Can anyone point me to the proper document for the regulations please?

Reply to
mkkbb
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On 7 Aug 2006 13:58:16 -0700 someone who may be "mkkbb" wrote this:-

Do you want to scrabble around under the worktop looking for it in an emergency?

I assume an electric hob. Unless the hob and oven are more than 4m apart you can use the same switch, which must be within 2m of each appliance.

The one for the hood will be on a separate circuit, usually the ring main. Why do you want to put it in a cupboard?

Reply to
David Hansen

Thanks for reply David.

Basically, does the hood switch need to be in reach, or can I have it above the hood/wall-units. It is one of those ^ shaped hoods. I'd rather not have 3 switches all just above the worktop, as it looks kind of messy.

Reply to
mkkbb

No problem with the hood. Stick the switch wherever you like, although if its purpose is not obvious, it should be labelled.

Cookers are special in requiring accessible, closely located isolator switches. Most other appliances have no such requirement.

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

Cheers Christian.

I've been reading lots of wiring regulation and building regs books today but cannot find any information on kitchen appliance switches, hence why I am getting confused with all this.

Would anyone be able to advise me on the best way to connect up a built in fridge-freezer? The manual says I must have easy access to the plug, but as it is built-in this makes it very hard?

Reply to
mkkbb

I stuck the socket on the old skirting board underneath. You can reach under and pull the plug out after removing the plinth.

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

Thanks for the confirmation. I thought of doing this, but wasn't sure if it would be possible to reach, as I've never built a kitchen before. Bit of a chicken and egg thing really.

Reply to
mkkbb

I do have long arms, though!

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

For the cooker wiring you can see it explained here- 'Cooker circuits

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isolator for the extractor does not need to be as accessible as th isolator for the cooker/oven/hob.

So you can put the extractor switch above the units, this is to enabl isolation for work on the extractor, not for emergency isolation lik with the oven etc

-- weekendwarrior

Reply to
weekendwarrior

Thanks for the link, seeing diagrams reassures me more!

Last question though, from the control switch to the oven and hob, do I need to run 6mm cable to the oven (i'd say yes) and can I run 2.5mm to the hob (ignition only), or would that need to be 6mm too. And does there need to be a fuse between the switch and the hob socket, or would the plug fuse suffice?

Reply to
mkkbb

The 2.5mm to the hob will be protected against overload by the downstream fuse in the plug (so a max of 13A which should be suitable for 2.5mm cable). You will be relying on the circuit fuse of ? 32A for short-circuit protection, which should also be acceptable in most circumstances, although can be checked by calculation.

The plug fuse will suffice in most circumstances. There should be *a* fuse though, either a plug or fused connection unit. Don't just connect the hob flex to a 32A circuit.

Owain

Reply to
Owain

It is also worth checking the power rating of the oven as very few of them draw more than 20 amps and so you may be able to use a 20 amp MCB. As the power to the hob is only for ignition purposes you may choose to put an extra socket from the ring in a unit next to the hob (there being no need for emergency access in this case). It may be easier than trying to cram a

6mm and a 2.5mm cable into the same terminals of a cooker outlet plate or switch.

Adam

Reply to
ARWadsworth

On 8 Aug 2006 03:26:48 -0700 someone who may be "mkkbb" wrote this:-

A matter of personal opinion. I think it shows a well designed electrical system.

Reply to
David Hansen

On 8 Aug 2006 09:54:16 -0700 someone who may be "mkkbb" wrote this:-

Discussed many times here recently. A search engine will pull up various options.

Reply to
David Hansen

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