Just been painting the woodwork in my mancave and for quickness sake decided I would depart from my usual choice of solvent based paint. I have been using Dulux water-based quick-dry paints and they are crap. After primer, undercoat and topcoat I can still see dark spots through the paint.
Never again!
Richard
And if you wash it, all the dark spots will merge into one :-(
Wilco still do a solvent wood primer, or did the last time I needed some.
I think the trade paint available in Dulux decorator centres is more likely to be solvent based.
I've found with water based paints a lot of (gloss) top coats are more like a transparent varnish when they dry - much like PVA that in the container is white dries transparent. When using water based paints I make sure that any darker colour is covered with a least two coats of undercoat.
For years, after finding dulux paints to have poor coverage, I switched to Leyland Trade - mainly from Screwfix or Toolsatan.
I will always use a solvent based paint for exterior but these days I find the Low-VOC paints take a very long time to fully harden/cure. The paints cannot stand any rough treatment for a week or two
It all depends on what causes the dark spots. You should probably have used a stain blocker first.
I have used acrylic primers in the past and usually one coat of solvent based undercoat and a topcoat of gloss left a completely even finish.
The dark areas showing through are mainly knots non of which were live so pointless to put a knotting coat. After the primer coat the timber was pretty patchy regards coverage but that is to be expected. Post the undercoat the coverage was unexpectedly patchy with grain and knots still visible. If this had occurred with a solvent based paint I would have probably undercoated again however the instructions on the tin only referred to one coat. As I said earlier getting it done quick was the aim of the game, so I went ahead with the top coat besides I did not have any undercoat left. The instructions on the gloss tin do say apply two coats, so I will try that tomorrow, but I am not confident it will do it.
Richard
I was keen on Leyland until 2 bad experiences. One can got 6 coats and stll didn't cover well, another was so watery it was impossible to avoid dribbles in application. 3 coats later the coverage is trash.
Dulux & Armstead are probably the only brands I can rely on - others are often ok, but not consistently. And some are consistently junk.
You can have films on surfaces, that prevent the paint from adhering or forming a proper film.
One case I had here, it was a biofilm. I was probably working outdoor. My first few brush strokes, the material I was using, went on in patches, and you could tell from the thinness of the stuff that did go on, once it dried, it would be a train wreck.
That can also happen when you change finish types, and sand and try to cover with some other type.
I got something here, around ten years ago, on the outside of the can it declared it "was a hybrid" and would go over anything. At heart, it was an acrylic, but it had something else mixed with it. It went over an exterior surface covered with multiple layers of solvent stain. It went over some not-quite-dry PTL for my steps. Surprised the hell out of me. I'd read the advice on such things, and this just shouldn't have worked.
*******I'm using this link, just for the text blurb. I don't know the chemistry, but this is the description. You can clean your paintbrush with tap water and a bit of bar soap.
Hybrid enamel paint is essentially a mix between oil-based and water-based paint. Hybrid enamel paint has a water base (like latex paint) but still contains alkyd resins (like oil-based paint).
...
Another major bonus is that because this type is strongly adhesive, less prep work and sanding is required. Hybrid enamel paint is often considered the best paint for kitchen cabinets because of its low-maintenance properties. "
Just something to keep an eye out for, when looking at finishes.
The one I purchased, wasn't for kitchens. It was for exterior usage, and while it's not "bulletproof", it is certainty better than a lot of stuff I've used outdoors.
But just about any finish can be defeated by a biofilm. Mould, mildew, are not your friends, when you're holding a paintbrush.
Paul
but, you need Dulux Trade
Trade branding now seems a very over used and misleading word.
Yes my banister was done with similar paint, and I needed somewhere to put a wet blanket, and when it came off the banister, parts of it had bubbled soft paint. Bah humbug. Brian
I have applied a second topcoat and it has improved the appearance but I can still see knots through the paint maybe I see them because I know where they are and others might not notice but I still stand by my previous -crap opinion. The label on the gloss paint describes it as high sheen and it does have one but I would not describe it as glossy lying somewhere in between the silk/satinwood finishes and a traditional gloss.
Oh well! It was an experiment having bought an airless spray system I was going to see if it was possible to use it, however the paint is too thick and there is no indication on the tin about thinning or suitability to spray. The spray system is OK for solvent paints but cleaning out water based paints is much easier.
Richard
Buy from a dulux decorator centre, not a retail shed. Nonetheless I've used random duluxes at times and not gone wrong with them.
Dulux trade weathershield external undercoat is (or used to be) solvent-based, whereas the seemingly identical stuff sold in B&Q is water-based.
And when sales are a bit flat they have regular 20% off days but you only hear about these via word of mouth.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.