Washing machine stopped working

Have a look at the water level sensor and make sure the tube isn't bunged up with gunge. It's a tube that comes out of the washing compartment at a low level, and is connected to a pressure sensor up near the top of the cabinet. May be nothing to do with it, but easy enough to check and clean out. Image of sorts here

My machine always slightly dampens wash then turns it and a bit more water I suspect trying to figure out the loading. Thus if the drum does not move then it might be just either the motor itself or the control is not working I don't know much about that make. Brian

Motor brushes worn if it is a few years old. Normally easy to get at and remove to examine.

When you say it drains okay does the drum rotate as well or just the drain pump operating?

The drum does not turn, it just drains the water.

Follow up: I have taken off the pressure switch, Utube tells me to connect the outer connections to a multi meter set at 200K and blow in to the tube. The switch clicks but the reading apparently should change to Zero from

Pressure switch should indeed change between zero & infinity ohms. But it won't switch in 1 or a few seconds in the machine, so could only be cause of your ills if it's early on in the power feed, which it may well be.

NT

I think the pressure switch is ok as I switched terminals and got readings.

I now have the motor out. If I connect a multi meter would I get continuitity if this was the issue. The brushes are on the limit with just 4mm left and the gap between the end of the holder and the motor is approx the same, I cant get a proper measure for the gap as it is awkward space.

It's unlikely the motor has anything to do with it. The manual will show you the 3 resistance readings you can expect for rotor, field & tacho.

NT

No tech info in the user manual (downloaded from internet) I wouldnt know what to do with the info, over my head.

Modern brushes at the end of their life fail very quickly. If the machine drum doesn't turn they are the most likely cause. Often the most you will see beforehand is that the wash before they fail there might be odd noises.

Between the brushes you should have more or less the same resistance reading as you rotate the motor. If you don't then given their low cost, the fact that they are the end of their wear life and the ease of replacement they are worth trying.

get the repair manual A random machine:

Resistance contacts

Learn.

NT

Also blow into the plastic tube that attaches to the pressure switch to check it's clear and/or blow out any gunge as Chris Hogg suggested. Just doing this fixed a previous washing machine.

I didn't even get odd noises. Machine worked properly, then next time no motor. Fitting new brushes restored normal operation.

If there's no travel left on the brushes that's a strong sign that new brushes are needed.

Yes I have done that and it appears ok. Question, since the motor is out if I connect it to a power source if it were faulty (brushes) would I be correct in assuming it would not run? Assuming this to be the cause of the washing machine issue.

That's not a reliable test because the motor won't be under load. The brushes might be able to conduct enough current to let the motor turn off load but not pass the higher current needed to turn a full drum.

As you have the motor out you can check the movement on the brushes. If they've worn down to the point where the brushes can't move closer to the commutator[1] then they need replacing.

Look on Google for replacement brushes for your motor type to see what a new brush should look like and compare them to what you have. There should be a relatively long carbon section often (but not always) fixed in some form of holder. If all you have is a little stub of carbon it's new brush time. If you're not sure you could post a photo of your brushes[2] and the panel will give you an opinion.

Not just the tube, but there's sometimes an air reservoir, like a little bottle, at the lower end of the tube with relatively small holes leading to both the tube to the pressure switch and the washing drum. Make sure those holes are clear.

This is an image of old and new, I would say eed replacing regardless. [IMG]

It states on ebay for a `sole` motor is that a brand or a type as mine looks identical.

That brush is a very strong candidate for the cause of the problem. Just yesterday fixed a Bosch machine with exactly the same symptoms. Brushes were slightly longer, about 10mm, but design was such that the spring was no longer applying any pressure at this length.