Washing machine fills with water but does not spin nor drain water. The cycle dial selector works (hear humming and see it turn through wash/rinse cycles) - dial stops when lid is lifted, resumes when lid is set down.
Was thinking lid switch was bad- but when I realized the dial would turn with lid down makes me think otherwise-
Model- Whirlpool Inperial Heavy Duty
On Friday, July 11, 2014 7:53:11 AM UTC-4, Chris wrote:
Many things can cause this.
In my case the centrifugal switch on the motor was stuck in run and wouldn't flip to start. I lubricated it and it has been fine for several years. Depends on how lucky you are.
On Saturday, July 12, 2014 11:15:19 AM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Or it's unplugged, or any number of other causes.
If power to the motor when it should start is confirmed, something is wrong
near the motor. Could be the motor, could be the start capacitor, could b
e the start capacitor is never in the circuit because the centrifugal switc
h is stuck, etc.
And no sound is relative. The motor may hum but not turn. But eventually
that hum will go away when the motor burns out. And after that a fuse may
blow. Fix the fuse, find the motor won't turn. Replace the motor, and it
still doesn't work because you never found the real cause (root cause.)
Best to have a logical troubleshooting procedure based on knowledge of how
the system works, and avoid making a diagnosis until all the data is in. A
s soon as you think you know what is wrong, your brain will stop seeing evi
dence that points to a different cause.
Or, you can guess (must be the run cap). Just keep replacing parts until y
ou luck out with the right one. Experience in what normally goes bad on th
at model machine makes it faster, you try the likely stuff first. A lot of
competent mechanics do it this way, but the real pros figure out what's wr
I don't know the answer but one place that I always try for these types of
I click on "Repair Help" to get ideas regarding what the problem may be, and
then I click on "Find Parts" to get an idea of what the replacement part may
They also have many how-to videos showing how to do the part replacement.
I have no connection with them, and I almost feel guilty suggesting them
here since I never even bought a part from them. I always end up figuring
out the specific part that I need, I print out that page, and then I go to
my local appliance parts place and buy the part.
Timer may be turning, but the contact may not be working. You can test
it if you have the equipment to see if the circuit is live. Next, if it
has power, is to check the motor.
Check www.repairclinic.com too.
I expect it's your air pressure switch.
Modern washing machines don't have a timed fill like the old machines
did. That's where the washer would fill with water for a fixed number
of minutes regardless of how much clothes were in the wash basket.
Nowadays, washers have a tube that runs from the bottom of the outer tub
to the air pressure switch in the machine's console. As the washer
fills, water rises up that tube and compresses the air above it. At
some predetermined pressure, the air pressure switch diverts power from
the water mixing valve to the washer's motor to start the agitation
If your machine fills with water OK, but then stops and goes into a self
induced coma, it's because the air pressure switch is malfunctioning.
It's interupting power to the water mixing valve OK, but it's not
diverting power to the washer's motor, and until it does, the machine
just sits there and does nothing.
> My washer does have that tube. Where will the switch be?
It'll be behind the console of the machine. The console is the plate
that all of your controls and indicator lights are on at the top of the
machine. You have to unplug the washer and remove the screws holding
that plate on. The plate should come forward far enough that you can
set it on top of the deck of the washing machine. Then you should be
able to see a rubber tube coming up into the air pressure switch, and
wires going to that air pressure switch.
In a case like this, your best bet is to phone the factory authorized
service depot for your brand of washing machine. You can find out who's
the factory authorized repair depot by phoning around to the various
appliance repair shops in your area, or just getting on the appliance
manufacturer's web site and finding their customer service 1-800 phone
Explain the problem you're having to the guys at the factory authorized
repair depot and see if they agree it's prolly your air pressure switch.
If so, buy the pressure switch from that factory authorized service
depot. You'll pay more for the part than if you bought it from any
appliance parts store, but included in that higher purchase price will
be all the free diagnosis, trouble shooting and technical help you need
getting to the root of the problem and replacing the correct part. You
get the best of both worlds by buying your parts from the factory
authorized service depot because you get an expert helping you figure
out what the problem is, but you save money on labour by installing that
At an applaince parts store, they'll sell you the part cheap, but the
guy behind the counter knows diddly squat about repairing appliances,
and won't be any help at all diagnosing the problem.
Make sure the guys at the factory authorized service depot agree with my
diagnoses before you buy the air pressure switch cuz it's an electrical
component and you might not be able to return it. If they sell it to
you based on THEIR diagnosis, there's a much better chance they'll take
it back because they realize that you only bought it based on their say
So, in a nutshell, you pay more for the part, but you save even more on
the labour by doing the work yourself.
Try looking up the part on
using your appliance make and model number. When you see the part, there is
sometimes an exploded view diagram that shows where it is located, and
sometimes a video to show how to replace it.
Or, give us the make and model number and someone here can try looking it
It seems to me that the air pressure switch SHOULD divert power from the
mixing valve to the TIMER MOTOR, and the timer then supply power to the
appliance motor to start the agitate cycle. Otherwise the timer would
be out of the picture and the machine would just keep agitating all day
The problem is in EVERY washer problem, the timer is always a suspect,
but appliance timers are actually fairly reliable, and are,
comparitively speaking, seldom the cause of problems.
Another possibility is that washing machines use induction motors, and
all induction motors can be made to run in reverse. By changing the
polarity of the leads to the stator, you can make a washing machine
motor run backwards, and it's perfectly happy to do so.
So, appliance manufacturers utilize this characteristic of induction
motors to run the motor in one direction for the agitate cycle and in
the opposite direction for the spin cycle.
The way this is done is by a relay, often called the "motor reversing
relay". Without power to the relay coil, the relay makes the connection
that has the motor turning in the direction for agitation. It is the
timer that energizes the coil inside the motor reversing relay, and that
changes the connections to the motor stator making the motor run in
reverse, and initiating the spin cycle. When power is cut to the relay
coil, a spring closes the relay again so that it's ready for the next
If the OP's timer is getting power after the fill cycle is complete, it
could be that the motor reversing relay is kaput, and it's not providing
power to the appliance motor at all. If that's the case, the machine
won't agitate OR spin. It'll fill with water and then not do anything
until the rinse cycle starts and the timer energizes the water mixing
valve to fill the machine with water again, and at that point I'm not
sure if the air pressure switch would prevent any rinse water from
coming into the machine. The air pressure switch might already be
diverting power to the timer, so the water mixing valve might not be
energized and so no rinse water would flow into the machine.
I think it best if the OP talked to one of the appliance repair techs at
the factory authorized service depot for Whirlpool. They would know how
their machines work better than I, and would be able to rule out the air
pressure switch or motor reversing relay just from the OP's description
of what the machine is doing.
There are basically two approaches to this type of problem
One is to understand how the system functions, and make deductions based on
Ex motor hums but doesn't start, it must be getting power, the timer must b
e working, the air tube must be okay, check out the motor
Ex no motor hum, check voltage, motor not getting power, what could cause t
hat, what else could cause that, how could we tell the difference?
The other is experience: Whirlpool Model X19 always loses the air tube, Ma
ytag Model 1913A has timers go bad, check those first
Repair techs save enormous time by relying on experience But they also hav
e common spare parts on hand, and sometimes change out several wrong parts
before getting it fixed. DIYers should try to understand the system functi
oning; a washer is not that complicated
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