What a brain trust we have around here.
The problem is the start capacitor on the motor.
You might have burned the motor out by now with all your messing around.
Go look up some place around you that does appliance repair and sells
used appliances and ask if they have any used capacitors they'd sell
you. Should be able to pick one up for $5 or $10.
The capacitor will look like a D-cell battery, black in color, with 2
wires going to it. Take the capacitor with you. It will have one or
two long serial numbers on it, as well as a value in MFD. Anywhere from
190 to 350 MFD probably.
Here's one of the videos from the repairclinic.com website showing how to
test a capacitor:
A motor that doesn't turn because of a dead capacitor will hum, and get
hot, and if you're lucky trip a thermal fuse. But it should also give
off a smell of burned varnish - unless that has already happened and it
doesn't do it anymore because the windings are now shot.
And regarding the capacitor test (someone posted a video) - that's
I've measured washing machine capacitors with a capacitance meter and
they measure perfectly good - but in-circuit they don't work. And
testing them with a volt meter (looking for a transient blip on the
needle) is also a joke - because old capacitors that have lost their
"capacity" will pass that test but again they won't work in-circuit.
Only a shorted cap is testable with a meter, and if it really is shorted
then I'm thinking a fuse is going to blow somewhere when you try to
start the appliance.
On Saturday, July 12, 2014 3:35:23 PM UTC-4, H o m e G u y wrote:
The homeowner doesn't have a rack of spare parts to test. And there's some
times a bit of intellectual satisfaction in figuring it out, buying only on
e part, and fixing it right the first time.
Not that it happens real often. YMMV.
You're right about not all mechanics operating at that level. When I super
vised maintenance, most did not fit that category but were competent enough
at the easy and medium stuff. I did not waste the ace mechanic on an easy
job, I sent the dumbest guy. Often enough he could fix it, when he couldn
't I sent the next smartest guy.
Front loadign or top loading. Oh, you don't say directly but you
talk about the lid.
If top, does it agitate?
If it does, to switch from agitate to spin, there is a solenoid that
gets activated and a metal part that the solenoid moves from one end of
an elongated hole to another (or something like that.) I think this
also changes the pump from recirculate to eject. Find the solenoid and
check it for continuity. Then while the machine is running, when it
should be draining or spinning, check to see if there is 110VAC on one
or the other terminal of the solenoid (measuring from one terminal to
the other is fine too, if you can get the probes in without
disconnecting the solenoid. If you can't, measure the voltage of the
wires that connected to the solenoid.
Remember this has 110 volts and there is water involved. If you stay
perfectly dry, and you know how not to touch electically charged parts,
you'll be fine.
If the solenoid has no continuity, buy a new one. They've probably used
the same one for 40 years, 1950 to 90 or longer. so if you find a junk
machine, you can probably use that one. If it fits, it will work.
Cut off the electrical connector when you get the junk solenoid in case
they changed that,
If the solenoid has continuity but no voltage, I guess it's a bad
solenoid switch in the timer. Seems less likely. But it can be fixed
My Whirlpool is from 1979 and still working fine. I had to tighten the
belt once, and that took me two tries to get it tighter.
The Inperial was a good model. It represented Whirlpool's abandoning
its plan to control an empire, so the Imperial was discontinued and, to
represent more inward thinking and planning, the Inperial was developed.
Most people don't know all this or know if the Inperial was top-loading
For the record, and speaking only as and being TomR, the answer is that I
don't know who TimR is, and there is no connection between any posts by TimR
vs. by TomR. But I agree that it can be a little confusing since the two
names are so similar. Maybe I'll modify, change or morph my posting name at
You can hear the cycle dial motor? Without putting your ear right
down on the machine at the dial? Or at least putting your ear with an
inch of the dial?
On one of my machines the motor would indeed become disconnected if I
put an unbalanced load in it. During spin, the basket would swing back
and forth until it pulled the connector off.
With the machine I have for the last 31 years, that's never happened.
Either I was taught my lesson by the other machine and I don't put in
unbalanced loads anymore, or the machine has a way to balance them, or
they left more slack in the wire, so it doesn't come off.
Whirlpool has or had a "cool line", where they had actual repairmen who
would give advice on what to do. The OP should see if they still do.
They were great.
The last time I had a problem I couldn't solve was over 30 years ago,
but on that occasion, I called them about 4 times and they were always
patient, and never told me, Well for that step you need to call a
repairman. Instead they were with me until the end. They waited until
I wanted to hang up and try what they had told me. When I called back
the next day, I'd get someone else, but he was just as patient. One
time I got a woman, but she knew here stuff too, wasn't just reading
from a script.
The machine was probably 20 years old when I found it on the sidewalk
and I used it for 5 years or so, but not often, and eventually it
wouldn't agitate. I forget what all I did first, but eventually he
wanted me to unscrew the cap of the agitator, remove the bolt, and
remove the whole agitator. I think I did all that. Then he want ed
me to remove the basket, and that just wouldn't come off. The main
bearing was rusted through, so it wouldnt' turn and it wouldn't let lose
from either the basket or the motor shaft inside. So I threw the thing
A few months later I found one just as big (full size), in forest green
color, on the sidewalk even closer to my apartment than the first one
(The first one was half a block away and I had to go get the building's
dolly to bring it home. The second was right across the street and had
its own wheels. When you got it where you wanted it, there was a 30"
lever on the back that would retract the wheels so it stood still. It
was designed to be rolled across the kitchen floor to connect with the
sink, but my apartment was big enough I could keep it permanently by the
double sink.) That was still working when I left NYC and I think I
rolled it 4 blocks to a friend's who used it.
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