Washing Machine Drains During Agitation

I've got an older model Kenmore washing machine that has run great until last week. It is a model 110.82374110 (non-suds). The machine fills normally, but when agitation starts, the machine is draining the tub (you can see it start coming out the drain hose as soon as the agitation starts). This causes agitation to stop after a few seconds while the water level is restored. Then more agitation/pumping, stopping, filling, etc.

I examined the underside of the machine and don't see anything obviously out of place. All the wiring is intact and connected. I see two 'cam bars' driven by magnetic solenoids. One bar is labeled 'cam, bar spin' and the other is labeled 'cam, agitator & pump'.

I can't get a view of things during operation. I'm tempted to replace the magnet assembly (mounts both solenoid electromagnets).

Can anyone point me towards repairing this old friend?

Thanks in advance!

Reply to
John Locke
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I can't help you directly but would advise you not to start changing parts before you have diagnosed the problem. I once had a GE that did this because a little rubber flapper valve in the pump was broken. Either get a manual or some good advice as to what actually causes your symptom. Sometime the people at the appliance parts place are very knowledgeable (and sometimes not).

Don Young

Reply to
Don Young

I should've mentioned that the timer seems to be working correctly. I have the logic table for the cam switch, and everything looks to switch correctly. That's what took me to the bottom of the machine for an examination. I have the exploded parts diagram and all the paperwork that came with the washer.

I posted a query in this forum in hopes of "getting some good advice as to what actually causes my problem".

It appears to be down to the pump itself (pumping all the time) or the 'cam bar' that actuates the pump valve.

Anyone? Bueller?

Reply to
John Locke

Had the same identical problem with my 12 yo Kenmore. I found a used appliance dealer and he let me strip out a similar rusted-out model. First, I replaced the "wig-wag" assembly (with the solenoids). No joy. Then the cam assembly. That fixed it, and now it runs fine in its 14th year. I did replace the pump 6 months later because of a leak. Note: it's a daunting job if you've never done it before.

Reply to
1D1OT

Since you've done this job before... do you remember if the cam bars are VERY close to the gear box?

Both bars appear to fit through thin slots across the top of the gear box. I can't tell if it is designed that way or if the entire assembly has slipped down and the cam bars have rubbed these slots in the top of the gear box.

Reply to
John Locke

Yes, very close, but I don't remember slots being worn in the gearbox. If the slots are 'worn' into the gearbox the bars/slots would be kinda shiny.

Reply to
1D1OT

Check this link:

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Also - the bars are actually 'shift levers' for the transmission and pump.

Reply to
1D1OT

Another view:

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Also, Kenmore washers of that era are virtually identical to and made by RCA Whirlpool.

Reply to
1D1OT

The bars don't really look shiny in that area, and there is grease on the casing where the bars pass, so maybe it is normal.

Looks like I'm going to have to have another look under there now that I have some more information.

Thanks for the link. That is a much better look than the exploded diagram. My problem seems to be with the 'agitate' cam bar; it's attached to the pump valve.

Reply to
John Locke

Thanks for all your help. I hope I can impose on you one more time...

I watched the wig-wag during operations, and both solenoids appear to be cycling when they should and engaging the cam bars. The 'agitate and pump' cam bar shifts when the washer cycles from 'agitate' to 'drain' mode, and the 'spin' cam bar shifts the washer properly into spin cycle.

From this I surmise that I should order a new pump assembly. Your opinion sir?

I posted pictures available at

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Thanks for all the assistance.

Reply to
John Locke

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