Just about every washing machine I've ever owned has gone through a period
where it won't advance through the cycles unless you manually spin the
timer. It's always cost me roughly $150 for parts and labor. Well it's going
on again with my Kenmore. Is this a simple remove and replace that I can do
Mark - go to www.repairclinic.com, type in your model #, and you will
be able to get your timer.... usually for about 20% less then what
sears will charge.
Also, you might want to post more info (model #, other symptoms) here,
to make sure it's not something else causing the timer to not advance.
There is an appliance guy here named Jeff who will help ya out.
Probably...but unknown as no model# posted...Kenmore is made by several
Some model# helps.
That's about average!
Some Whirlpool built Kenmore timers....
Look on the back of your old timer as they often put the part# there.
Appliance Repair Aid
washing > machine goes through all the cycles until the final spin.
When you lift > the lid, the water is pumped out but the clothes are
wet. If you close
the > machine shuts down. Doesn't that sound like a timer?
A bad timer is very possible.
Still no model#, but if you have a Whirlpool built direct drive
Kenmore, most will...A copy:
**Inglis, Whirlpool, Kenmore Direct drive washers: This machine is a
forward/reversing style of washer. The motor drives one direction to
wash, stops, reverses and goes the other direction to spin and pump.
The timer is responsible for cycling the motor back and forth. As the
"direct drive" name indicates, there is no belt on this machine, but it
has a coupler between the motor and the gear box. Most ( not all )
direct drive washers are a neutral drain washer, means the timer allows
the washer to pump out the water and then the timer pauses ( stops )
the washer so the neutral drive in the gearbox can reset for spinning,
and when the timer allows the washer to start back up again the pumping
will continue and spinning will occur. You should be able to see the
pauses on the washer wiring diagram flow chart.**
If the "pause" is missing, the timer is likely bad. If the pause is
there but no spin, the gear box neatral drain may be lazy and bad on
entering the spin mode.
Appliance Repair Aid
Appliance Repair Aid wrote:
There is a pause between the initial wash and the pump cycle. As far as a
pause between the last pump cycle and the spin, I have no way of knowing. If
the timer is at least $100, I may as well let my handy repairman do it as he
ususally get me for $150. It would be worth $50 to make sure it's done
right. The washer is a "70" series and the model # is 11020712991
You can generally assume that you are going to pay a serviceman
roughly twice what it would cost you to replace a timer yourself.
The pro has a right to a legitimate profit if you hire him; you have
a right to save money if you are reasonably handy.
Replacing the timer in just about any home appliance is rather trivial.
But you have to be good at diagnosing your problem because you
aren't likely to find a parts dealer who will let you return an electrical
part. This is very reasonable, because too many amateurs are capable
of ruining the new electrical part and attempting to return it as "defective."
The manufacturers build most timers in a manner which make them rather
difficult to work on. Still, many timers can be repaired by a good DIY
homeowner. I've had extremely good luck with dryer times, about 50% luck
with washing machine timers and very poor luck repairing dishwasher timers.
Even if you aren't brave enough to try fixing one, I'd recommend tearing
apart any timer that you have replaced so that you can determine how
complex it is, whether you can locate its problems, and whether you could
repair & reassemble it. It develops self-sufficiency skills - which may be
very important if the timer that you need is no longer manufactured.
If I determine that the timer is the problem with an appliance, then I'm going
to remove the timer. If I'm too busy to mess with attempting to fix the timer,
then I take it to the parts dealer along with a serial number and model number
from the appliance. If I've got the time to try fixing the old timer, then
I've already removed it and I can do my experimenting on the old timer before
making that trip to the parts dealer. Nothing is lost except for a half hour
or so of tinkering. Sometimes the fix is nothing more than using an emery
board and then sandpaper to restore a set of burnt contacts.
I strongly recommend working on your own appliances if at all possible.
Your lifetime savings will be considerable. Plus you will feel less vulnerable
when you do call in a pro and he recommends expensive repairs.
To make your timers last longer: Periodically warn everybody in the house
that you will break their fingers if you catch them turning an appliance timer
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