Timber frame inner wall fixing

Am in the process of converting a single-brick outhouse-extension-type-thing into a kitchen, and to bring it up to habitable standard I'm erecting a timber frame on the inside, so the overall wall construction will be (from the outside): 4" brick, 1" air gap, 2" Kingspan insulation (within the 2"-deep timber frame); 12mm plasterboard/skim - this has been approved by the BCO.

The studs are being nailed to horizontal timbers on the floor and ceiling, ie they aren't in contact with the brick wall at all, so no way for damp to penetrate (as the BCO specified). However, I'm scratching my head over how to fix one bit. There is a uPVC door fitted into the brick wall, and immediately to the right of it there's a window, with no intervening brickwork - ie the 'hole' in the brick wall is 'P' shaped:

__________________ | | | | door | window | | | | | |________| | |* | | | | |________|

How do I support the studwork at the bottom left(*) of the window, given that at that point I can't extend the stud vertically to the ceiling? I'm presuming it will have to be fixed to the brickwork, but how? If I interpose a length of DPC membrane between brick and timber, I'll still have to breach that by putting screws through it.

I'm also not sure how you 'close the cavity' around doors and windows with a wall construction like this, but that's a question for the future!

Thanks David

Reply to
Lobster
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On Tue, 28 Feb 2006 18:58:32 GMT, a particular chimpanzee named Lobster randomly hit the keyboard and produced:

There is a risk of moisture penetrating through 4" brick, but unless you're in an exposed location, it's very small. The main reason for maintaining a cavity is to prevent interstitial condensation developing on the 'inside' of the brick.

Look at 'Thermabate' for closing the cavities.

Reply to
Hugo Nebula

You just need a small return to take it back to meet the frame...

I think you may be worrying too much, it is not as if you are trying to tank an underground cellar wall here!

Reply to
John Rumm

I think that the best thing here would be to use a DPM against the wall, and then a piece of e.g. masterboard as a spacer between the woodwork and the wall as well. BCO can probably advise on this.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

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