A small add-on to garage is concrete block with one door. The old door
is hollow core and falling apart. The frame is steel with no apparent
screws or fasteners showing. The frame has coats of old paint and a
little rust and I can't imagine how one would remove the steel frame.
Rather than replacing just the door, it is looking like it would be
easier, if we can remove the whole thing and replace with a pre-hung
door. Door is 32x80, 1 5/8".
On 9/10/2010 10:01 PM, email@example.com wrote:
Got an air chisel? Those frames are installed as the wall is built, and
have ears on the back that are mudded into the block. Hope you have a
lintel above it, otherwise the door frame is part of the wall structure.
If the frame is sound, I'd take the old door slab to a commercial door
and window house, and have them see if they can find a matching
insulated steel door with same thickness, hinge spacing, etc. Might be
hard in a thin door like that.
Otherwise, time to call a mason in, unless you want to be brave and try
it yourself. Should not be too expensive. A good one can piece it in
with chunks of 4" block, or chunks of split block, so it looks like it
was always there. Run off any that say that they will just mud it in.
I was afraid of that ... built-in :o) There is a lintel, but what
difference does it make? My daughter's home, so decision is hers and
her husband. I'd make a door with cross braces before I'd go for
masonry work....checked HFH and another reseller for used door.
Surely there's a salvage place around that has old doors, etc.???
Good chances for finding an old exterior door altho used salvaged
interior doors on the garages and old shops here that have survived (w/
some rework) over 50 years so far and still going. I did reglue one
earlier this spring but I suspect it will now outlast me caring any
longer... :) This is pretty dry country (not desert, just 20" annual
rain average) so isn't like they stand in water here--longevity wouldn't
be quite as good back in TN or VA or similar...
I'd imagine simply putting another old hollow core back in the opening
would last for another 10+ years in all likelihood. Doesn't sound like
needs anything of consequence for the purpose.
On 9/11/2010 8:56 AM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
If garage is not heated, a Z-buck door would be an entirely appropriate
solution, if it fits with the style of the house. If you can find nice
dry 5/4 T&G car siding for the part that shows to outside, you could
even make it reasonably pretty. Build it oversize an inch or so, and cut
to fit before you make the mortises for the hinges and such. Make sure
to check opening and door slab for square before you cut. Glue and screw
the Z boards, and the thickeners for the hinge edge and lockset, Pick a
wood and finish that is suitable for the local weather conditions. It'll
hold up better than a hollow-core door. Big thing with a plank door like
that is to make sure the bottom can't wick moisture from the threshold-
that is where the rot starts.
Forgot to answer your lintel question- if there was no lintel (either
concrete precast, or single or double steel L running into the wall on
both sides), if you take out the door frame, the block right over the
door may succumb to gravity and fall down, especially if you vibrated
the wall a lot while removing the frame. Some places let a steel door
frame count as a lintel, at least for single-story walls that are not
carrying ceiling joists or roof above them.
Appreciate your advice, but what is "car siding"? Thickeners? I can
muddle through cutting wood and fitting the hinges...just bought a wood
chisel to get rid of old globby caulk where the block meets the garage
wall. The door faces the front of the property, but blocked from view
from the street by the house. The garage is in good shape (brick) and
we are also preparing to paint the block section dark red matched to the
red brick of the garage. Any nicely painted door should be okay in the
location. Garage is recovering from a tree branch through it's
roof...got another huge oak to take down. :o)
On 9/11/2010 6:12 PM, email@example.com wrote:
'Car siding' is what they used to cover RR box cars with, 100+ years
ago. Tongue and groove plank, often with a bevel on the edges to reduce
splinters. Often available with a matching V-groove down the middle,
mostly for looks, but can also reduce the tendency to cup. T&G is better
for doors, because wood expands and contracts, and simple planks would
leak air at every joint. In pre-plywood pre-drywall days, became very
popular for outbuildings and interior use in porches, utility rooms and
such. Often used for wainscoting in areas where plaster would not stand
up, and they could not afford masonry or tile. Last gasp of wide
popularity was the 'knotty pine' fad for basements, porches, attic
conversions, and such, in the 1950s or so. The purists on here will say
I am stretching the term 'car siding', and I probably am exceeding what
the industry says it is. To me, it is any wood T&G plank (as opposed to
clapboard or sheet goods) siding material.
As to the other terms- those are just what popped into my head- to make
it all as thick as the door you are replacing, you will need to add wood
in spots where stuff attaches. As to how to build a shed-style door- do
a Google search for 'how to build a shed door' , 'how to build a Z-brace
door', etc. Lotsa how-to pictures out there, and even some videos. If I
was building a door like that, I'd put square-edge planks all around the
perimeter, one horizontally at mid-point, and the diagonal braces rising
from lower corners on hinge side, to the upper corners near lockset and
top outside corner. To the frame, the door edge would look just as thick
as it does now. Done carefully, a door like this can be very strong.
Now one of the actual trim carpenters on here will jump in and explain
the correct way to do it, and use the proper words.
On Sat, 11 Sep 2010 08:56:38 -0400, " firstname.lastname@example.org"
You can buy new replacement steel doors. That's a standard size.
Or make a frame out of treated 2x4's and cover the exterior of the
door with ribbed metal siding like the kind used on pole barns. Use
the matching trim to cover the ribs at top and bottom.
The hollow metal jamb is a better product. I doubt that your door
is 1 5/8" It will be either 1 3/8 or 1 3/4. I suspect that it is
1 3/4. Contact any local supplier of commercial doors (NOT the
lumber yard and especially not any of the box stores) and get a
price on a 2-8 / 6-8 door. Measure the hinge tops from the top of
the jamb's door pocket and measure the center line of the strike
from the top. Note whether the strike plate is a T strike or D
strike and its size. Any commercial supplier will be able to
tell whose jamb it is and would be able to precut and mortise a
wood door or supply a steel door that will fit. You can also buy
a slab and do your own prep - make sure to read up on beveling
both edges of the door and proper mortise work with chisel or
If you really want to remove the hollow metal jamb:
Easiest would be to use a gasoline Quickie type saw with fiber
blade and slice across the jamb about every 2 feet. The anchors
holding the jamb will be 1/4" wire or 16 gauge galvanized T's.
There will usually be 3 per side and one in the head. The jamb
will be full of concrete.
Wiggle, cut, grind, hit with a sledge until you can remove the
Removing the jamb as usable or in one piece probably isn't going
Keep the whole world singing . . .
email@example.com wrote the following:
Actually, from what you described, it doesn't 'look' easier (or cheaper)
to replace the whole thing.
Scrape the paint off the center of the steel jamb on both sides and the
top to see if the screw heads are hidden under that old paint.
The screws are installed into wall anchors. If you find the screws
anchors, don't expect to be able to use the old screw anchors in the new
frame. You'll have to install new anchors in the wall to accept the frame.
If it were me, I'd leave the frame and just replace the door with a
solid wood or steel exterior door.
I can dream, can't I? :o) Was hoping (NOT expecting) to find door same
size, same hinge location, low price :o) We could take down the old
door, replace most of the frame and slap on some plywood. With a good
paint job, would probably last a few years.
firstname.lastname@example.org wrote the following:
You can get a piece of 3/4 plywood and a couple of T-hinges, cut the
plywood to size and screw the hinges to the frame to hold the door.
Or even more cheaply, lay a piece of plywood against the door frame and
pile some old Chevy auto parts laying around against the plywood to hold
it in place.
It would probably last decades, from what I've seen in the backwoods,
not just years.
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