what is the formula to place anchors in concrete block for building a garage
or home addition? How far from the edges, how much distance between each.
Also how to make sure they don't interfere with the studs when the wall is
Depends on what you are trying to attach. Mudsill? Ledger? What grade
is the block?
In general epoxy resin bolts with resin screens work best in hollow block,
but one would need a lot more information to make a full recommendation.
Bob Morrison, PE, SE
R L Morrison Engineering Co
checkout this link to Hilt anchoring systems
gives you choices based on anchor material & what you're achoring to
These are all qestions for your eng. or you local building department.
Some places alow you to epoxy bolts and ancors later others do not. If
you are building a garage depending on where you are you may need to
use a hardiframe or some variation of it which has about a dozen
different bolt patterns itself. Other things that are going to dictate
where ancors are placed are sheerwalls, doors and windows. If you are
talking aobut standard plate ancors still you need to check locally.
Some have very different specs on these as far as placement and even
how they are placed. For example in some parts of CA you can place the
ancors in after the inspection during the pour and others you must have
them suspended in place with plastic holders so they may be seen in
place at the time of inspection yet still other allow you to hang them
from cut sections of wood so the best thing to do is start with the
building department...besids it doesnt really matter what the best way
or even the strongest way to do it is because unless its in the spec
pages of the plans (which it will most likely be) your doing it the way
the building dept wants it...period...
It may vary in your area but here its every 48" (or less). Dont put them
right in the corner ( 10" out should be Ok)
How far from the edge depends on what bottom plate you re using 2X4 or
2X6 and the placement of that plate, depending on how you plan to finish the
You should shoot your framing lines before filling cells/applying anchors so
you know where your doors etc are going to be.
Your plan(s) may call out for Simpson ties or other hardware adjacent to the
uprights that might need to be bolted down to the bottom plate/foundation.
I "missed" one and had to get an engineer to sign off on a replacement epoxy
Simpson anchor/bolt and got a bill for $ 165.00
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