Any suggestions on how to attach framing studs into a poured concrete
floor?(specifically a horizontal 2x4, used to attach vertical 2x4 framed
wall at the floor)
I don't think masonry nails will work here, and I don't have a Hilti gun at
my immediate disposal. Not to be picky, but I don't really want to drill
anchors in either. ...
Just as I thought -
What do you think about just using liquid nails to attach it to the floor
(without nailing)? This wall is just around the mechanical room, not load
bearing or anything, and not prone to abuse. Guess I just ought to arrange
use of the hilti gun and do it right though....
In a similar situation I drilled for tapcon screws every 4 feet or so.
Didn't even bother with a hammer drill, though I did have to redrill one
hole when I hit a rock.
The following may be overkill, but is what is recommended around here.
Using this technique the wall won't move sideways and the joists are
free to shift over time.
The top plate should be 1/4-1/2" below the joists above to allow for
shifting. To hold the top in place drill a hole in the top plate and
put a framing nail up into the bottom of the joist above, leaving maybe
1/2" of the nail sitting below the bottom of the top plate.
The remington masonry gun gets my vote - not too much cake, and easy enough
for me to handle. I'm just framing in a small closet off to the side of the
HVAC room, and this is perfectly workable.
I'm just handy enough to be dangerous. ;)
You'll find tapcons a lot cheaper/convenient than buying or renting a
masonry gun for a small job like this.
You can buy a pack of 10 or so tapcons with the proper drill bit
for <$10. A hammer drill is best, but a regular one will work
Put the board in place, drill right through into the concrete,
and then drive the tapcons.
If this is a slab on top of earth (basement floor, garage floor
etc), wrap the bottom half of the lumber with heavy plastic - use
vapor barrier if you have some. Lumber on top of concrete frequently
wicks moisture (concrete is porous), and without protection the
wood will rot.
Age and Treachery will Triumph over Youth and Skill
Don't forget that wood in contact with a slab should be pressure
You can rent a powder actuated fastener gun for 10-15 bucks if you
don't want to buy the kind you hit with a hammer. If you go with the
latter, use a 3lb hammer; it takes quite a whack to fire the load.
Sounds like the bottom plate of a 2X4 wall.
Put 4" foam sill gasket down under the plate and use 2" concrete nails.
Drive them thru the "2 by" until they re flush with the bottom. Line up
your wall and pound the concrete nails "home" with a sledge hammer. One
good BANG ! each should do it
Go to the local rental shop and rent the Hilti drill and whatever bit you
need. Some Tapcon bolts and a socket wrench to put them in and you're all
set. Probably cost less than $50 and that includes the drill for a morning.
I'm in agreement w/ the others who suggest either renting the Hilti or
buying a cheap Remington powder-actuated gun, so nothing new there.
I'd suggest the simplest way assuming there's clearance is to frame
the wall section on the floor and then stand the sections in place and
then fasten the top and bottom sill plates to the floor and ceiling
and done...much simpler process than putting down sill plate and a top
plate in place and toenailing studs in.
As someone else also noted, remember to use treated for the sill plate
if in contact w/ the floor slab and the idea of a membrane between is
excellent if it's a below-grade slab particularly.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.