Brick pavers over torch-down roofing on 2nd story porch

I have a home that I have added a 2nd story porch to. Detailed and related pictures can be seen at

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It is a wooden porch with 3/4" plywood over 2X8 joists on 16" centers on a 6'+ span (quite sturdy, in other words). The plywood has been carefully flashed around the perimeter and than waterproofed with a torch-down granulated roofing system. I am trying to figure out the best way to put 1/2" brick pavers over the granulated torch down material. Can I use thinset and attach the tile directly to the torch down? Would I need to glue down a backer material to the granulated roofing first (I don't want to penetrate the roofing material)? This is in central Florida so freeze/thaw is not an issue. Rain is certainly an issue here and there is 1" of slope on the porch to shed the water. Any ideas as to the best way to approach this would be appreciated greatly.

David Jensen Change the xyz in my email address to MJ for my real email address. Thanks.

Oh yes, if you've looked at the pictures, the pink shutters have to go, I agree.

Reply to
David Jensen
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You need to elevate and separate the pavers from the roofing using pedestals or other support mechanism. Here's a link to a typical product:

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Reply to
Bob Morrison

Bob,

Thanks for your response. Could you please help me understand why the pavers would need to be elevated? I've seen jobs here in central florida where tile was put down and not elevated. I don't know how long it will last, but I know that I've seen it in some of the nicest developments in Orlando and elsewhere (not that that means that it is OK, of couse).

Do you have any other suggestions, in the event that I can't find some good way to elevate the floor? I have contacted roofblok and they are sending me samples.

Thanks aga>> I have a home that I have added a 2nd story porch to.

Reply to
David Jensen

David:

The purpose of elevating the pavers is to improve drainage and to keep as much of the paver off the roof surface as possible. Also, elevating the pavers allows one to put in a flat, I.e, non-sloped, walking surface while maintaining a sloped drainage surface on the roof below.

Reply to
Bob Morrison

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The torch down probably makes the use of pedestals a required item.

Was the intention to go with pavers from the start or are you just looking for a more durable walking surface?

R
Reply to
RicodJour

Thanks for your response.

It was my desire to put down 1/2" thick brick pavers on the upper deck to closely match the brick that we were going to put on the bottom porch. I've seen it done right over torch-down, but I was concerned that it might not hold up. I looked at many high-end homes in the a retro developement named Baldwin Park in Orlando. Most of those homes with upper level porches had tile or pavers on them. They didn't use a torch down system but rather a whitish colored product that didn't use tar and oil to keep the water out as torch-down does. I was going to find out more about that product but the guy doing my framing actually made the arrangement for the guy to come and put down the torch-down. In the interest of time I went with that. I suspect that the other product that I saw in Orlando might have lent itself better to just putting thinset right over it and securing down the pavers that way.

I think that the products that you and Bob Morrison (the other poster on this thread) highlight should work well, provided that weight is not an issue. I talked with the guys at roofblok.com and they are sending me out some samples. Their product is about $4/SF and should go down easily. They have some lighter weight products which I think are running about 13#/SF. I wish I had some engineering background to determine if that would be a problem. I think that they will probably work OK in my situation.

Having said all the above, my wife would prefer the 1/2" brick pavers and if I could do that practically, I would go that route.

David

Reply to
David Jensen

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