fixing venetian blind to upvc window frame?

Hi, some advice would be appreciated!
We've had an extension built and wish to fit a venetian blind (already made to measure and delivered) into the window recess.
Unfortunately there is a steel lintel right above the plasterboard which prevents me top mounting the blind in the way I've done before, using plasterboard plugs. As the windows are upvc I'm really not sure about making holes in the window frame, how to do it or whether it would work. The builder has advised that the window company won't invalidate the guarantee if I do this.
This must be a reasonably common problem - can someone advise? Is there another solution using some kind of adhesive? ("No more nails?") And if the answer is to make holes in the plastic window frame, any advice on how to do it so it won't fall down?
Thanks.
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Timbo wrote:

Most plasterboard fixings need quite a lot of room behind the board to enable them to expand. These Fischer Plasterboard Plugs use much less space (see pictures) http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id6589&ts ‰807#
Or you could try these Metal Easi-Drivers , very strong fix & not much longer than the thickness of the board http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId 0067&ts027&id595
With 12mm board & a 3mm skim you should have room for either. Stick a bradawl through till it touches the lintel & measure the depth.

I have used twin thread woodscrews before, if the client gives permission. They grip into upvc very well. Straight in with drill driver, no pilot.
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On 1 Mar, 23:05, "The Medway Handyman"

I agree with Dave on this, just screw into the plastic but make sure your screws aren't too long as they might go right through the frame and foul the window. Another way to do it is to fix the brackets to the side of the recess, i.e. into the wall. Most blind fittings have holes in their brackets to allow this. Richard, Malvern
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fido wrote:

Thanks for the advice.
I must admit I was expecting to be told NOT to make holes in the UPVC!
Can you advise what length screws to go for if I'm going into the UPVC? How thick is the UPVC, I've always imagined it's very thin with lots of air behind it.
Re twin thread woodscrews, are they easy to get at say B&Q? (I'm only a casual DIY-er...)
Tim
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timbo wrote:

It's only 2-3mm thick, but there might be more than one layer of plastic which you can drill through. Sometimes there's a metal frame hidden somewhere inside the upvc - you can drill and screw through as many layers as you like, or you can accept it as a limit. Stopping before you see daylight is considered good form.

Dead easy - look at the depth of your blind fittings, and choose a screw length that will stick out for 25mm or so beyond that.
Buy a small pack of self-tapping screws if you want something really simple, or a pack of twinthread woodscrews (threaded for full length of screw) if you want to keep the rest for future odd-jobs. No. 6 size will be fine if there's several screws going in at each end, probably No.8 if there's only one at each end.
Use a 2mm drill, or a hand bradawl, or any other sharp pointy thing, to make a pilot hole where the screw is going to go. Needs to be about half the width of the screws you're going to use. This will reduce any problems with slipping, and helps to double check measurements.
If you're not sure you've lined it up correctly, just move it - the redundant screw hole is likely to be hidden under the fitting anyway, but if not a dab of paint or tippex will cover it.
.
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Steve Walker wrote:

Great advice, thanks!
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If it is an RSJ then not so easy but I have drilled and tapped RSJs for fixings in the past though not when cased in plasterboard
Incidentally how was the plasterboard fixed to the lintel in the first place?
Tony
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