I will have to weatherproof the abutment of a 12.5 degree pitched roof and a solid 9" brick wall. The abutment is the length of the roof slope. The roof will be tiled in redland regent concrete tiles which have quite a deep profile. The plans say for lead to be stepped or slotted into the wall and dressed into the tile profile (so water cannot run in sideways along the length of the roof). I will used stepped flashings, not slotted (like the idea better). Should I use soakers over each tile and a cover flashing stepped into the wall, or do it with a single piece of flashing, which may required thicker lead and more dressing / lead contortions ? Also, what angle is the lead usually under-cut at each step ? Thanks, Simon.
You will find soakers and a stepped cover flashing easier than a single piece of lead that will have to be dressed down on to the deep profile of roof tiles. This is a bit tricky on 'green' i.e. new, roof tiles. Easy to break them whilst dressing the lead into them. Soakers only need to be 'stretched' in one direction so much easier.
The step angle doesnt matter a lot but should be around 45 degrees.
Dont forget to use lead wedges to secure the step flashing into the chased out brickwork
Thanks. Thinking about it, I'm not sure soakers would work with the interlocking concrete tiles, since there is some ridges that interlock, and the lead may interfere with this. I guess if there's more dressing required, thicker lead maybe a good idea, so it is less likely to rip. Simon.
You will require, code 4 lead, sold in metres and 6 mtrs rolls. the easiest way to do step flashing if your not conversant is to use single soakers. theses are cut 50mm or 2" longer than the tile length. The side lap onto the tile should completely cover the roll and just into the flat of the tile. So if the tile finishes with a gap away from the abutment this should be filled in with either mortar or a length of timber, this stops the lead from sagging down the gap . Soakers are cut to length as stated above with a
50mm or 2", 90 deg angle. The soaker is lay on top of the first tile with the top of the soaker under the tile above 25 mm or 1" bent over the head of the tile,. the other 25mm bent down vertical at bottom of the tile. repeat this on all the tiles to the top or under the ridge. Step flashing code 4 lead 150mm or 6" wide. Cut into length no longer than
1.5,.metres, its easier with 1 metre or 39" long. with a nail lightly scribe a line the full length of the strip 50mm or 2" from the edge, this is called the water line. Place this strip of lead vertical length ways against the wall with the water line at the bottom parallel with the soakers.over lapping the 50mm or 2" up stand. With the nail and a piece of lath or straight timbre line up the top of the brick and carry the line on till it meets the water line. Do this on all the horizontal joints making sure that the lead stay in position and doesn't slide down the roof. Take the lead away from the wall and lay flat on a board with the marks facing up. With the nail draw line from the second brick line top to the first brick line were it joins the water line.Continue this the full length, this should give the step design. with a pair of tin snips cut down this line as far as the water line, DO NOT CUT INTO THE WATER LINE JUST UP TO IT. With a nail mark a line 20mm or 3/4" above the brick mark line and cut off the waste, make sure you cut along the right line as the other line is where you bend to go into the wall brick joint . turn the strip of lead over and bend the 20mm or
3/42 90 degs. dress with a lead dresser against a block of timber to get the wall end level and flat.. Take the flashing strip up on to the roof position against the wall and if you've cut it out right it should fit in the brick joint and cover the soakers, The next piece is done in the same way but allow 150mm or 6" over lap on to the first piece. To mark out for the cutting out of the joint in the brick mortar , use a
150mm or 6" board put the bottom edge on the tiles and with a pencil draw a line on the brick work on the top edge of the board. The brick joint can be cut out using a lump hammer and plugging chisel or grinding out with a mini disc grinder with 115mm x 5mm mortar raking disc cutting depth of about 20/
25 mm. The lead flashing is held in with either lead wedges or special made stainless Bora clips.. Lead wedges are made up of 15mm or 1/2" wide strips of lead rolled tight and flattened at on end, inserted into the brick joint and wedge in with a plugging chisel and lump hammer until compressed and not protruding out of the face of the brick. The chisel is used long ways thin edge ways. not the point.
Tools required are 1 x 100mm or 4"nail, pair of tin snips, plugging chisel, lump hammer, lead dresser (not a chase wedge as describe in the ww site)
150mm or 6"wide board or calk line, pencil, code 150mm or 6" code 4 lead, and what ever you use for re pointing the brick joint.
Its easier to do than discribe it but I hope it helps
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