how to choose between quotes for flashing repair

I had quotes from three roofers for my roof, which needed some tlc, including the flashing. Two of them said the whole roof needed replacing, one quoted £10,000 and could start almost imediately, the other £7,000 with a 6-8 week wait. This puzzled me as I alway thought the busiest tradesmen usually quoted higher as they were not "hungry".

The third that it only needed re-ridging, flashing and some tiles replaced at a cost of £700. I queried this with him, saying what the others quoted, he stuck to his guns and said that was his belief.

So I splashed out £100 on a surveyer, reasoning that I would rather be sure of not wasting £700 or £6,300. The surveyrer agreed with number three, and said that information the other two had given as to why it needed reroofing was false.

I should add that all three were reputable local companies. Very problamatical, sorry I can't help, except to advise caution, which as you asked the question I suspect you already realise.

Cheers John

The traditional way is to 'step' it into the brick courses as in quote A, and IMHO looks better. It's the more labour intensive method, and uses more materials.

Cutting a slot through all the bricks will obviously loose some strength in the wall - although this would be marginal - but could also allow the lead to warp more easily due to heat from the sun if the run is continuous.

"keith dulwich" wrote | Please can someone let me know if the diference between 2 roof repair | quotes is significant? | Need to have flashing replaced where conservatory roof joins brick wall of | house. So that's two 45degree lengths making a triangle. | Quote A from proper letterheaded paper firm with FMB logo = 251 + vat | Quote B from local one-man firm from home address = 150 (vat not made | clear - presume included), incl 5 yr guarantee | roofer A said to use stepped pieces of lead. (specific details from quote | follow*) . | roofer b said would cut long diagonal across brickwork and do side in one or | two pieces.

Stepped lead is going to take rather more work, hence the higher price. You can't compare the quotes because they are quoting for different things.

If you want stepped lead, ask B to quote for stepped lead. If you want diagional, ask A to quote for diagonal. Then compare quotes.

Stepped lead I think looks a better class of job entirely.

PS If B does not show a VAT number then he should not be charging VAT at all, whether included or additional to the quote.

Owain

Yes, I agree. I have a feeling if you go with B you might just end up with a strip of flashband stuck down the join.

Also, the temptation if doing a cheap quick job with chasing into the wall parallel to the roof is to use just one piece of lead. This will inevitably warp with the heat of the sun. Even if using this method, it should be sections overlapped at about 3ft intervals.

"keith dulwich" wrote in news:cbm7ht$506$ snipped-for-privacy@titan.btinternet.com:

This is exactly the right specification, although I'm not sure about "lead sealant". Normally pointing with mortar is the way to do it but he may have a better idea. No reason not to go with this quote as long as the VAT situation is clarified OK.

Peter

It doesn't tie in with the summary earlier in the OP's post. I suspect A & B have got swopped somewhere.

oops yes sorry, the expensive quote was the one with the technical details - good to see they look credible. I think the question comes down to whetrher the cheap quote is dodgy standard or just less pretty, as to be expected for less money.

As long as the lead is in 1m strips - but such things should be written if you want to be sure theyll be followed.

You could always copy the relevant bits of 251's spec and give it to the other one. However I would do none of the above. I'd pay a days wage for labour and get the supplies in meself. Much cheaper. The difference is if it goes wrong later its your problem. If you understand what needs doing, how and why, this way costs far less.

Regards, NT

The first method is far, far better. It will look much better and last much longer. The correct maximum length of flashing is mentioned. The weight of lead is right. Both these are important, in terms of durability and or the lead staying in the right place. Make sure patination oil is applied after the lead is fitted.

Re. the second, cheaper, quote. Leave it alone. It is not easy to properly fix a sloping flashing, and unlikely to be successful in any long term, hence the derisory 5 year guarantee. You might even find "flash banding" is used instead of proper flashing. Conservatories are not going to last as long as the house. Do you really want an unsightly slot cut across your brickwork, that can't be camoflaged easily, to be exposed when the conservatory is removed (or changed/renewed) ?

J.B.