Still ongoing problems with the valley on my roof. I have clambered on
and managed to stick some metalised gaffer tape over 2 cracked tiles, and
run some along the obvious places where the mortar was cracked. This has
improved the situation tremendously ... now when it rains, a small damp
patch appears on the wall. When it's not raining, the dehumidifier dries
it back quite quickly.
Need to go through the rigmarole of contacting a roofer. (The one I used
2 months ago (took £1,200 pounds from me too) has had two chances to come
and quote, but after another week of no show, I've had enough).
Clearly the valley needs to be put straight. The lead flashing was
replaced 4 years ago, and looks grand. It's just the mortaring of the
tiles that seems to be the issue.
Is there any more modern system cf the ridge tile system I had fitted,
where the tiles are held in with plastic clips which are screwed into a
batten with a waterproof skirt underneath them ?
Mortar seems to be the worst idea ever IMHO. If anyone wants to reply and
say that it's the best thing since sliced bread, as long as it's done
properly, then it's still shite as over the past 12 years, I've had 4
roofers mortar the ridge tiles, and it only seems to last 3 years.
Same on our roof. Roofer was shit hot with slates and lead but knew SFA
about mortar. Pva is the answer IME, whether added to the mortar or
applied to the surface. Cheap and easy but they won't use it for some
reason. Presumably it shaves a fraction of a percent off their meagre
If the tiles are correctly cut, no water will leak in a valley
even if you haven't mortared it yet, unless there's a really
strong wind. If they're mortared and it breaks away, then the
cracks in the morter can funnel the water under the tiles.
However, it still shouldn't come in as the underfelt and gutter
should catch it, unless the underfelt has failed, or there isn't
IIRC, I used a 3:1 or 4:1 mix when I pointed my valley. It is
kind of tricky to do, as the tiles move when you stand on nearby
ones, and it's all too easy to destroy the bond as you work on
the next tiles. The mortar should be under the edge, so that if
the bond does crack, the water is still not directed into the
In my case, the original leak was due to a broken tile higher
up, water running down the underfelt, which had rotted off just
when it got to the valley, and dropped into the loft. I stripped
it all off and fitted a modern underfelt, and the strip which
runs under the valley is not even a breathable one, as I wanted
that to be well waterproof.
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
On Mon, 10 Feb 2014 15:35:47 +0000, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
You've convinced me that *anything* is better than mortaring.
Just had a roofer look at it via some photos I took when I was up there.
He's suggested a dry valley system (I have googled it) and says he can do
the leaking one and the one the other side (which is the same geometry,
just not leaking - yet) with new felt, battens and tiles for £1,800 all
I'm inclined to take this, as shopping around *may* get a cheaper quote,
but I really can't do with the hassle.
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