Roofing Advice

[Cod Roe]

Currently I have some minor leaks arising around the mortar flashing on my Victorian terraced house. This summer I would like to get these replaced, however one of the problems I have with roofing contractors is they do what they want to do rather than what is best, so I thought I'd ask for some advice here. The largest problem is here:

the bathroom roof joins the rest of the house. I have heard that fibre glass flashing are good here, and one can be built up to cover the exposed brick work between the two roofs. I can't however find much info on this on the web. Anybody any good links/experiences? I'm also thinking of adjusting the gutter so that the main gutter empties into the other gutter, rather than going via the roof.

Also the flashing round the chimney and with next door leaks a little:

lead the most suitable flashing here, or again does some more modern alternative exist?

Thanks in advance for any help or advice.

[Mr Fuxit]

> Is lead the most suitable flashing here, or again does some more modern

You need real lead flashing.

[keith_765]

"Cod Roe" wrote in message news: [e-mail]...

This area is a very common leaking point, from the photo you cant see what's above the gutter line, is there a valley or does the ridge just but up to the wall ?.. There is no product called " fibre glass flashing " The nearest product is "fibreglass valley sections", Theses wont cure the problem you have. The reason builders and so called roofers use cement in stead of soaker and flashing is because its quicker and easier. To rectified the problem, you will have to hack off the cement from the brickwork and slates, insert alloy or zinc soakers under each slate and then put a lead step flashing into the brick joint and over the up stand of the soakers. If you want to use lead for the soakers then you will have to take off the slates, as its very difficult to lift the slates to push lead soakers under slates. The photo of the chimney and the abutment wall . Requires the same treatment with an apron across the front. It also looks as if the adjoining roof as a bad case of sagging or purling as slipped. Soaker are pieces of metal, either of Lead, Copper, Alloy or Zinc, usually 6" wide strips bent at 90 degs with an up stand of 2" or 50mm length ways, they are 2" or 50mm longer than the exposed slate from bottom edge, . theses are slid under the slates adjacent to an abutment. Cement will only let water in via the joints in the slates. this is more to prone where there is a gutter emptying out, as the volume of water tends to run side ways more.

> where the bathroom roof joins the rest of the house. I have heard that

[Cod Roe]

It just butts up to the wall.

Thanks for your help, now I know what to Google for, things have become a lot clearer, I found this rather neat diagram:

[keith_765]

tiles. For slate its the same principle but only allow 2" or 50mm up stand as slates are thinner, also don't add on the 1/2" extra at the top as the nails that succour the slates will stop you.

[Cod Roe]

Thanks again! One more thing, I have taken another picture of the ridge of the roof, and it seems the guttering for the main roof is actually set within the mortar flashing. By my understanding this is going to become a serious problem as I don't know how the soakers and the lead will be fixed into the lack of wall. Can it just be tucked under the slates at the top?

again for the help.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Mortar flashing is a bodge. Have it done properly with lead.

[keith_765]

>

Take the end ridge off and gutter, place a big enough piece of Lead equal over each side of the ridge tree, 150mm each side, and under the plastic gutter, you will have to take the gutter off . Turn the lead under the slates above and at the other end turn the lead back on its self about 1" or

25mm. Try to dress or push the lead either side of the ridge tree onto the slates, This is called a saddle. replace the gutter and rebed the ridge. make sure the lead saddle, with the return, goes under ridge about 2" or 50mm. A piece of sheet lead about 18" x 12" or 450mm x 300mm code 4 should be big enough.

Its easier to do than to explain