SeceuroGlide garage door not closinf.

Typical reasons are:

2) Contact sensing method has detected an obstacle in the path. Some doors would have a rubber strip and a microswitch, for contact sensing. Photoelectric obstacle sensing, check that transmitter and receiver optics are clean. Optics don't have to be visible light, they could be IR. IR light can be detected with a SmartPhone camera pointed at the transmitter. A white light, with no white light visible in the real world, indicates the transmitter is 960nm.

Yes, some doors have batteries riding on the door, as part of the design. A box on the door could have batteries. But you've located a spiral wound expansion cable, indicating power is routed from the main control unit which has mains power to run the motor. The spiral cable could be multi-conductor, it could contain DC for something, and a single status signal "Jammed".

The documentation is relatively dire, and looks like the nuclear launch codes from 1950. It looks like it was written by a burglar alarm company.

Paul

Iphones are likely to have an IR blocking filter on the maim camera so will not show IR. The selfie camera may not have this IR filter. Before coming to any conclusions about IR transmission using a smartphone camera check that it actually works using the IR TV remote. Point the IR LED on the remote at the camera and press a button on the remote. If the camera is capable of showing IT you will see the LED flashing on the screen.

Thanks Paul. I think it's time to get an engineer in.

The symptoms you describe are exactly the same for run down batteries on my roller door that has a rubber strip with a sensor on the bottom edge of the door with the transmitter mounted on the bottom slat. Mine definitely has batteries for wireless connection to the main unit wired is not an option as any wires would soon tangle with the mechanism. Have you tried taking the whole transmitter off the slat as the batteries maybe on the back side?

BTW the batteries may look like normal AA but are not, they are 3.6V lithium AA cells and not commonly available at supermarkets or even DIY sheds. I get mine at Amazon the make being EEM3 ER14505 3:6V AA.

Richard

PS

Are you sure that the wires you can see are not the connections to the sensor strip? Link to batteries;

Richard

Probably wise. The motors which open and close those doors generate an amazing amount of torque as they're often normal motors geared down a long way, and that can result in a lot of damage.

When I didn't notice that my garage door had frozen shut in a heavy frost, the motor didn't stall when I pressed the remote control button. It continued to turn as as something had to give it broke all six heavy-duty plastic couplings between the motor roller and the door. It was an expensive repair...

There instruction book is ‘generic’. There are several ‘safety strip’ types

- not all have batteries - ours doesn’t. I THINK those with batteries lack the spiral wire.

The problem may be the motor - it has sensors to detect a ‘stall’ - or a problem with the bottom edge strip.

I’d go along the edge strip looking for damage / distortion - try squashing side ways to see if it changes the lights. Ours seems to be a simple compression system. You can override the edge sensor - from memory you fit a resistor, at least on ours, which ‘tells’ the box on is there but all is well. Obviously only for testing.

If it is the motor, the whole roller needs to come down.

Ours failed about a year back and I got someone in - I didn’t fancy lifting a double roller etc.

As for the control box cover, if yours is the grey one with a frosted light cover on the top, there are 4 screws - all in holes- on the front. There is a ribbon cable from the cover to the main board. From memory, Pozi type.