My sectional garage door when closed will go up only 12-18 inches. This
is with the both remote and wired control switch. I disconnected the
door from the opener and the door opens and closes freely. It also
closes using the opener. With the door still disconnected from the
opener, the opener chain would travel the full distance both up and
down. With the door connected to the opener chain, the door would
travel only 12-18 inches reguardless of where the door is positioned on
Any suggestions are appreciated.
Has the opener been getting it's vitamins? : )
- How old?
- Where are you at? (Weather, tempurature, etc.)
- Have you done anything around there lately that would affect it?
I'd assume that the motor is drawing more current than normal and tripping a
safety someplace and stopping. But that's just a guess.
Mine did the same thing.
The chain is hitting an exposed bolt on the track. The hesitation causes the
motor to shut off (safety feature).
In my case, twisting the thingy that attaches the chain to the door - so it
wouldn't hit the bolts in the track - solved the problem.
Most likely, the spring tensions have become uneven; one side is
pulling harder than the other, and the door is trying to "tilt"
in the tracks at it goes up.
With the opener disconnected, try manually opening the door by
grabbing something near the left or right edge of the door. Will
it open that way?
Now try it again, but lift it from the other side. Will it
open that way?
Try having someone open the door while someone else stands
near the door. When the door jams or whatever it's doing, grab
the door while someone pulls the opener disconnect, and see if
it's actually jammed, or just way too heavy. Somewhere around
its midpoint of the opening, the door should feel pretty light,
or maybe even go up the rest of the way on its own. If the door
is still real heavy at that spot, then the springs or something
has caused a tension loss on one or both sides. The springs have
to pull evenly from each side for a cleanly operating door.
You have looked at the springs to be sure one or more aren't
Careful: If you don't know what you're doing, this can be
dangerous work. The springs are under a LOT of tension when the
door is down. And if a door falls closed on its own, it can
wreck the door and/or tracks/mountings.
One should not be so philopotemic
lest they be seens as disputatious.
Check all the bolts on the hinges between the sections to make sure
they are tight. Check to make sure the edge guides are not loose. Are
all the bolts holding the door opener to the ceiling and to the door
tight. For my garage door these are the biggest reasons for the
opener kicking out. Basically, it is a binding issue.
Has your tensioner adjustment changed for some reason?
Radio Control Aircraft/Paintball Physics/Paintball for 40+
When you operate the door by hand (open & close) you say it moves freely. Does
it move with very little effort? The opener is not even as strong as a person.
Does the door balance at 3 to 4' open w/o the opener attached?
I suggest you get a copy of the opener manual. Different openers have different
adjustment procedures for ther opener. If yours is a LiftMaster it will have
two screws by which you can increase & decrease the open & close force limits.
If the door does not balance at 3 to 4' open (that is it creeps closed) you
need more spring tension.
If it balances you might need more up force.
Just went through this with my door; needed more spring tension due to
increased winter weight of door.
If there is a "dry spot" on the garage door opener's drive
screw, it can cause enough resistance to make the opening door
stop. (When the garage door is closing, the weight of the
door helps it get past the dry spot without hesitation.)
To lubricate the screw, open the garage door and watch to see
how far it gets on the screw before stopping. That's where
your dry spot is. In your case it will be very close to the
door end of the screw. You're best off using a gloppy
lubricant rather than WD-40 or 3-in-1 oil, or the dry spot
will soon return, although you could try one of those first
just to see if lubrication on the screw is indeed the problem.
Use as little lubricant as necessary! Any extra will get
squeezed out by the action of the opening and closing, and
will drip on your car a little bit at a time for weeks.
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