Hi, I have a 10 year old garage door opener. When the garage door
opens, sometimes it jerks the door at the start, but the door opens
There are also few times when we close the door, the door will bounce
off the floor and reopens by itself.
Does it sound like a bad tension in the spring, or something else?
A couple of things come to mind...
1. Check is all bolts, hinges, tracks, etc., are tightened up. These
do work loose.
2. Check that track and chain or drive system is properly lubricated.
Any light grease will do. Something that won't drip or run is better.
A "white" non-migrating lubricant.
3. Check opening/closing forces.. There are adjustments on the motor.
Likewise for overtravel.
I do a check for those items once a year on my garage door lift,
If the two items above don't do the trick, then you might want to call
in a garage door outfit. I have replaced springs, but that can be more
than a little bit tricky.
Both symptoms are common to the same cause.
Check your opener's limit switch, would be my advise.
Sounds like settling has caused the door to close 'earlier'
than it had when the opener was first installed.
You need to move the limit switch back a taste so that the
door closes securely yet does not 'load up'.
Yes. The 'down limit switch' is telling the opener that
the door had not closed. So the opener has only one choice;
that is to treat the garage floor as an obstruction,
triggering the re-opening.
Your 'down limit switch' is adjusted on the 'edge' of
Sometimes it forces the door on to the garage floor,
sometimes it sees the floor as an obstruction and re-opens.
Does this sound familiar?
Buildings move as they settle. Doors jam. Windows stick.
Same thing here. You can't jack the settled side of the
door jam back up, so you readjust the opener.
Both of these symptoms are consistent with the same cause.
(I don't know if I mentioned that.)
Watch the opener carefully as it closes the door.
You will see it bend a little as it stores the energy it took
to force the door on to the garage floor. When you open the
door, some of that energy returns in the form of a rebound.
That is the jerk you see.
Here is an Experiment:
Mark the position of the 'down limit switch' (with a magic
marker) on the track. (Then photograph it with your
Loosen the 'down limit switch' and slide it back, toward the
opener motor a couple inches. Tighten it in this new position.
You should see daylight under the garage door after it closes,
but the jerk will disappear. You will find a place on the
arm of the opener for the 'down limit switch' that will
allow the door to close securely yet not rebound as it does
now. Just move the switch to that position and tighten it
You have nothing to lose here. If the experiment doesn't work
in this manner, you can slide the limit switch back to it's
previous position and you are back where you were.
Dennis didn't write:
> Wow! That worked a treat!
> I have my 'down limit switch' adjusted properly and the door now
> closes securely and doesn't jerk or re-open as it did before.
You are welcome, Dennis.
I'm happy to help out.
On Thu, 2 Jul 2009 10:13:52 -0700 (PDT), " email@example.com"
The cause in my case was that the rubber on the bottom of the door was
sticking to a relatively new concrete stain which was applied to the
I applied a strip of duct tape to the floor in the area where the
rubber was sticking, and the problem disappeared. I was told to apply
some paste wax to the rubber, but I never got around to it.
The chain is connected together with a spring for safety. The door
appears to be sticking, then releasing stretching the spring as it
should. Check the track and around the door. Operate it by hand to help
find out where it is sticking.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.