Repairing old Slide Projector

I have just had my old Hanimex 1500RF slide projector out to view some old

35mm slides and had to fix it. The top casing is held onto the base by about 6 screws that screw up into moulded pillars in the top casing. Most of these have split and no lionger can accept a screw.

I am left wondering how to keep the top attached to the bottom. Any ideas?

Reply to
DerbyBorn
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Well the screws, are they just self tapped or were there bushes in the plastic. If the latter then araldite works well, unless the actual plastic top has become super brittle in which case it is a bigger problem and thus possibly unfixable unless you can fabricate a cover from some other substance. I had this with the bottom half of a multimeter many years ago, of course the maker was out of business, so in the end I made one out of bits of hardboard and those plastic corner bits all glued together. Looked a bit odd though I have to say, Luckily the battery compartment was not of the same crap plastic.

Brian

Reply to
Brian Gaff

Duct tape.

Tim

Reply to
Tim+

How neat and tidy do you want it? Do you expect to use it again and again. I'd drill out the plastic and either use Rivnuts if practical or Araldite-in threaded inserts otherwise if I wanted a proper job. Otherwise Tim's duct tape....

Nick

Reply to
Nick Odell

Nick Odell wrote in news:pbkvkh$ap4$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:

I have just bought some long cable ties and have joined them to keep one side together - I remembered my hot glue gun for the other side where a tie would get in the way of the carousel.

Who knows - I may never use it again - I was sorting through about 2000 slides - and have taken screen shots of those that interested me (worked well enough and faster than scanning)

Reply to
DerbyBorn

Try and find some tube which fits over the pillars, even plastic. Apply a filler type glue- epoxy or car body filler and slide tubes into place. Leave to set. Drill small pilot holes and, with luck, the screws will 'cut' a new thread. The grey 'isopon' stuff works well. For tubes, I try to find old pen bodies, caps etc.

Reply to
Brian Reay

Brian Reay used his keyboard to write :

Small bore copper or alloy pipe works too. I managed a similar repair using some scrap alloy pipe removed from the burners of a gas hob. It looked useful, so I removed the alloy pipes before putting it out for scrap when I installed a new hob. Cut the tube to the original height of the plastic, line tube with body filler, push on to what is remaining of the plastic, then top up the end with body filler. Once set, you can drill a pilot hole.

Reply to
Harry Bloomfield

Brian Reay wrote in news:pbl5h9$d9e$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:

Sounds good. I have made a bodge for now - but your method soulds great. I guess it is down to having screws that started to make a new thread rather than engaging on previous threads.

Reply to
DerbyBorn

No, PVC electrical tape stretched slightly before fitting. Either around the seam, or a few strips perpendicular to it.

Reply to
newshound

If the pillars have split, can they be ty-wrapped together so that the screw will fit the thread again? Pillars are often conical to aid ejection from the mould, so tubing won't slide over the whole length. Actually tubing over the top end of the pillars would be better than ty-wraps.

Reply to
Dave W

Why not duct tape? I taped my mother?s tumbler air drier to the top of her washing machine about 10 years ago. Tape still doing its job just fine despite the best efforts of the washing machine to shake it off.

In my experience PVC tape when stretched has a habit of contracting again and exposes sticky residues.

Tim

Reply to
Tim+

newshound wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@brightview.co.uk:

It doesn't stick well to the "grained" plastic.

Reply to
DerbyBorn

I've used it a few times- it needs 'free standing' pillars which you can get the tube around. The beauty is, the adhesive doesn't need to 'stick' to the plastic that well.

Reply to
Brian Reay

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