Repairing old Slide Projector

Well the screws, are they just self tapped or were there bushes in the plastic. If the latter then araldite works well, unless the actual plastic top has become super brittle in which case it is a bigger problem and thus possibly unfixable unless you can fabricate a cover from some other substance. I had this with the bottom half of a multimeter many years ago, of course the maker was out of business, so in the end I made one out of bits of hardboard and those plastic corner bits all glued together. Looked a bit odd though I have to say, Luckily the battery compartment was not of the same crap plastic.

Brian

Duct tape.

Tim

How neat and tidy do you want it? Do you expect to use it again and again. I'd drill out the plastic and either use Rivnuts if practical or Araldite-in threaded inserts otherwise if I wanted a proper job. Otherwise Tim's duct tape....

Nick

Nick Odell wrote in news:pbkvkh$ap4$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:

I have just bought some long cable ties and have joined them to keep one side together - I remembered my hot glue gun for the other side where a tie would get in the way of the carousel.

Who knows - I may never use it again - I was sorting through about 2000 slides - and have taken screen shots of those that interested me (worked well enough and faster than scanning)

Try and find some tube which fits over the pillars, even plastic. Apply a filler type glue- epoxy or car body filler and slide tubes into place. Leave to set. Drill small pilot holes and, with luck, the screws will 'cut' a new thread. The grey 'isopon' stuff works well. For tubes, I try to find old pen bodies, caps etc.

Brian Reay used his keyboard to write :

Small bore copper or alloy pipe works too. I managed a similar repair using some scrap alloy pipe removed from the burners of a gas hob. It looked useful, so I removed the alloy pipes before putting it out for scrap when I installed a new hob. Cut the tube to the original height of the plastic, line tube with body filler, push on to what is remaining of the plastic, then top up the end with body filler. Once set, you can drill a pilot hole.

Brian Reay wrote in news:pbl5h9$d9e$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:

Sounds good. I have made a bodge for now - but your method soulds great. I guess it is down to having screws that started to make a new thread rather than engaging on previous threads.

No, PVC electrical tape stretched slightly before fitting. Either around the seam, or a few strips perpendicular to it.

If the pillars have split, can they be ty-wrapped together so that the screw will fit the thread again? Pillars are often conical to aid ejection from the mould, so tubing won't slide over the whole length. Actually tubing over the top end of the pillars would be better than ty-wraps.

Why not duct tape? I taped my mother?s tumbler air drier to the top of her washing machine about 10 years ago. Tape still doing its job just fine despite the best efforts of the washing machine to shake it off.

In my experience PVC tape when stretched has a habit of contracting again and exposes sticky residues.

Tim

newshound wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@brightview.co.uk:

It doesn't stick well to the "grained" plastic.

I've used it a few times- it needs 'free standing' pillars which you can get the tube around. The beauty is, the adhesive doesn't need to 'stick' to the plastic that well.