Rebating hinges?

[Stuart]

I meant when the hinges are off the door ...see the pic link for pics of the hinges .

[Chris Bacon]

to them, they're in a terrible state!

[T i m]

So and back to my point, (and looking at pic 2 in your later post), if you rebated the door and frame to an even depth (as I assume a router hing jig would do) the exact thickness of the hinge leaves the gap on

*that* door would be quite large (guessing ~5mm against the length of hinge?).

So, this was either a Victorian 'bodger' (as judged by some on this list) or someone that knew what he was doing to provide a decent hinge side gap?

So the modern solution to that (when using a hinge router jig) would be to recess the hinge *beyond* flush and back to my op ...?

All the best ...

T i m

[meow2222]

4-5mm

I'm not sure exactly what you mean there, but with surface hinges its important to use decent sized screws rather than little 1" tiddlers, as its entirely the screws that provide strength and position stability.

In Victorian times, frames requiring less carpentry were normal in the more cost conscious houses.

NT

[Nick H]

If rebating the hinges flush left too big a gap then your man shoul

have rebated them a bit more, its not "ideal" but i've done it man times and will rpobably have to do it again when faced with hinges tha dont give the correct gap, ideally 2 to 3 mm. In an ideal world al hinges are perfect, all doors are flat and all frames and linings ar square and plumb. In the REAL world a carpenter has to work wit twisted doors, pi**ed linings and c**p quality ironmongery and stil produce a good result, thats where the years of experience come in knowing how to get over such problems

-- Nick H

[Mark]

A door hinge needs to be fitted so that the two hinge leafs are parallel when the door is shut like

gap between the two leafs will therefor determine the gap between door and frame if they are fitted flush with the woodwork. With some hinges like the one posted by Stuart will produce an unacceptable gap if fitted flush, and is very common with Victorian cast hinges. The answer was always to rebate the hinge so you have a acceptable, even and small gap around the door, or get a better Carpenter or fit different hinges. HTH

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[T i m]

Understood ..

That's what *I* (and some others) thought.

So in this case setting the router maybe 1 - 1.5mm deeper and re routing both door and frame to that depth.

It seems many 'carpenters' on here would disagree with you though Mark and only fit them flush with the surrounding surface, accepting whatever gap that gave?

That *was* one of my suggestions but the reply was 'he (the customer) want's them, he get's them ... ' ;-)

Well sort of .. it's doing what I (and you) suggest, but that has been poo poo'd as a bodge .. ?

All the best ..

T i m

[Pete C]

Why not ask him and see what he says?

Only thing I can think of is it gives more leeway to put in or swap with another door that has already been hung, which might otherwise bind on the hinge side or have a gap on the opposite side.

cheers, Pete.

[Chris Bacon]

I rather disagree about this being common with cast iron hinges. I don't think those are cast, either.

[Chris Bacon]

Router, poxy router for a pair & a half of hinges!!!

[Stuart]

They're not .They are steel

Stuart

[T i m]

I did and he said that just rebating the hinge leaves so they were flush were the correct way (AFAHWC) ?

Well he was fitting 4 of these (heavy / expensive) doors with 3 hinges each so had to do them in a sorta production line .. maybe he had just given up with the smaller details as the customer keeps changing his mind what he wants .. ;-(

All the best ..

T i m

[Mark]

common

the ones in the pic are not cast iron , and i did not say _they_ were !

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[Mark]

Er mallet and chisel work quite well for me.

Carpenters ? Not noticed many of those, a few people seem to have read the Ladybird Book of how to be a Carpenter but skipped to the appendices of what power tools do I need. :-)

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[T i m]

He probably decided it wasn't worth the effort as only he and I would ever notice? ;-(

And I know he did that with all the other stuff (he complained that all the wood for the studwork was as twisted as hell and I saw the bucket of spacers he picked though to get the liners (4 doors) plumb and flat), I think he'd had enough when it came to the hinges .. ;-(

All the best ..

T i m

[T i m]

Getting 24 rebates nice and true against the clock, I'd go for the router as well! ;-)

I must admit I hadn't read many carpentry books when I built a 6' 'Pram' dingly at school when I was 12. I had watched / helped my Dad with maby carpentry projects though.

I didn't want bookends or a bathroom cabinet, a boat was much more fun! ;-)

All the best ..

T i m

[Dave Plowman (News)]

That applies to modern hinges. However, I've got several originals in my Victorian pile, and they're all as near as dammit flush with the wood. Of course after 100 odd years and now central heating I doubt the gaps are as consistent as they were from new.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Same here - they look like mild steel to me. As are my Victorian ones.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Makes a super job, though. ;-)

[Mark]

You can still get 3 and 4 inch cast iron uncranked hinges from your local Ye old Hardware Emporium at £7.50 pair. Possibly made in China, defiantly not by Crane. Or a box full online

or 8 inch cranked is the real challenge.

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