Rebating hinges?

If the hinges were rebated so that the flaps were flush with the edge of the door and the frame, that is exactly how they should be fitted.

Colin Bignell

Reply to
nightjar
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All of the ones I've used 'close' beyond parallel. So with the faces parallel there is a slight but significant gap between them - probably about 2mm with a normal door hinge. The last thing you want is the faces meeting when closed - it puts an enormous strain on just about everything.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Are you saying the K6 door was wood? I've used hundreds being old and thought it was cast iron as the rest of the box.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Only to a dedicated bodger. Surface mounted hinges will give a large gap between door and frame and not have the same strength in locating the door.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

In the end the chippie if he's any good will take the hinges, the frame, and the door and bugger away till it all fits evenly, using various depths of rebates, and relieving any over size woodwork.

If you end up with a totally wrong fit, fire the chippie.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Many hinges when fully closed have a gap between the hinge leaves...at the pivot..

The trick with them is either a deeper rebate, or a tapered one, deeper near the hinge pivot..

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Well, that was my question?

Being that these were potentially good / expensive and substantial hinges (x3 / door) and he had rebated them flush into both door and frame I wan't sure what else could be done (or what was allowed / excepted to be done like recessing the hinges deeper than 'flush' etc).

I suppose by the gap being 'too big' I could have meant 'bigger than was needed to allow the door to open / close easily' and potentially spoiling to some degree (to my eyes at least) what was otherwise a very neat well considered job ;-)

All the best ..

T i m

Reply to
T i m

Understood.

Ok, but is a deeper rebate than the thickness of the hinge leaf considered a 'bodge' though (judging by the replies here the answer to that is probably 'yes') ?

All the best ..

T i m

Reply to
T i m

Well I did question that point with him but his reply was that was what the 'customer' wanted so that was what he was fitting?

I don't think there was any doubt re their mechanical suitability (strength etc) just their design may have produced a bigger gap than most other (even heavy duty) hinges I have seen?

All the best ..

T i m

Reply to
T i m

Ok, so he built the (substantial) studwork, fitted the liner (to probably better accuracy than most 'chippies' I've ever seen before (squareness, plumbness and straightness) and the doors were 'hand made' (outside) to fit his efforts. When you stood the door as supplied in the framework he created the door fitted neatly with probably a 1.5~2 mm gap down both sides (it wasn't supposed to go to the top of the frame and gave a good gap (20cm) at the bottom.

It was only after he had hung the door (and from what I have received here so far) 'correctly' he then had to dress quite a bit of the 'slam' (is that what they call it?) side of the door to 1) get the door to close at all and 2) to make a similar sized gap to the hinge side?

He's one of the few 'chippies' *I* would actually employ. ;-)

All the best ..

T i m

Reply to
T i m

"hinge bound". Often problems are caused by a build-up of paint.

Reply to
Chris Bacon

You *must* be joking.

Reply to
Chris Bacon

It could have been more .. I think anyone seeing them who had seen traditional press hinges would think they were 'chunky' ;-)

It is his living and he's working weekends as well so as not to let anyone down ...?

They were and still reckon the gap was nearer 4mm .. ;-(

This guy is pretty attentive to detail. Watching him packing the liner every 18" or so to ensure it was dead straight (and re-packing once he had finished to iron out even tiny imperfections) was quite reassuring (that some folk can still aim to do a good job)?

Oh, to any casual user of the door I'm sure they wouldn't give it a second glance but at £150 / door (just to have them made) and being there when they were being hung made me ask the question.

I have no problem living with other folks decisions but when party to them I'd like to think I'd taken the bet / most considered decision at the time .. lest chance for any of those 'why did you do that then' type comments ?

I like to think so Dave. Much better in my eyes than a 'thattle do' one (but then I don't have to earn a living from this stuff in todays 'thatlle do' climate ..) ;-)

All the best ..

T i m

Reply to
T i m

I've had a look at the hinges that I removed temporarily from a door in my flat ..Victorian doors..and the hinges when closed have a gap at the pivot end and the hinges only meet at the outer end .The recesses in the door are tapered so they are deeeper at the pivot end going to flush at the other end .All the doors are done that way .

Stuart

Reply to
Stuart

Sounds like poor workmanship through not understanding how a hinge is meant to work...

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

On Wed, 03 May 2006 09:13:06 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)" had this to say:

The door was teak; the rest was cast iron.

Reply to
Frank Erskine

You live and learn. They must have been kept well painted in those days.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Eh.??? The doors hang and close perfectly .What are you saying .

Here are the hinges if anyone is interested .

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Reply to
Stuart

On Wed, 03 May 2006 13:45:33 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)" had this to say:

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gives the erection instructions.

Rgds -

Reply to
Frank Erskine

I'm not sure what Stuart means, but old cast iron hinges will close like that (off the door!), and they are often slightly thicker at the knuckle end.

Reply to
Chris Bacon

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