Power supply for electric oven

We will be fitting an electric oven and gas hob into the house we're renovating. The oven needs a 13A supply and as such can go on the ring main.
My question is, should it be an ordinary 13A plug and socket arrangement within the housing or maybe a switched fused connection unit above the worktop (to act as an isolator) with a piece of 2.5mm T&E going down to some sort of connector unit within the housing?
Cheers,
Mogweed.
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Mogweed wrote:

The 13A plug and socket arrangement within the housing wouldn't be compliant, because you need to be able to isolate the appliance without having to lug it out of the housing first.
My preferred solution is to mount a socket on the wall immediately behind an adjacent cupboard, and to cut a hole about 3" diameter in the back of said cupboard to permit access to the socket. You plug the appliance in there, and can easily stick your mitt through the hole to switch off the socket / unplug the plug / change the fuse in the plug as required.
If you really wanted to do the FCU route, you could have still fit this socket in the same way, but have it controlled by an FCU above the worktop. Not a lot of point though!
--
David

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some
But isn't that still non-compliant because you would have to open the cupboard first ?
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Slightly OT from the original post but does anybody know if there has been some edict from on high that all 45A cooker switches have to be red now ? There used to be white and silver ones which were not too unattractive but now all I can find are hideous looking ones with the big red nose in the middle.
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Mike wrote:

There's always been a requirement for the "operating means of a device for emergency switching" to be "preferably coloured red" - but is is just that: preferable and not mandatory [Reg. 537-04-04]. Nothing has changed, AFAIK.
--
Andy

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been
?
but
Thanks. It appears MK have just decided to make it mandatory themselves then :-(
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main.
some
Although you can plug the oven to the ring circuit, I personally don't like this arrangement, and have always preferred a separate heavier gauge radial to the position the stove and separate cooking appliances will be in a kitchen. This is because it allows for more scope on the appliances if they're comes a time you want to change them.
What other loads do you already have on the ring circuit which supplies the kitchen?
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We are installing two ring mains in the kitchen, one RCD protected for things like kettles, toasters and other general stuff and one unprotected. The oven would go on the unprotected ring along with the CH boiler and the fridge/freezer and that would be all that that ring carries - unless anyone has any other suggestions or comments, that is :o)
Mogweed.
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arrangement
anyone
That sounds about right, as long as you keep the unprotected ring circuit to just those appliances. But, personally, I still prefer a cooking appliance on its own separate heavier gauge radial circuit. I also like these types of appliance to have good safety protection all along the line. Mixing heating elements with metal casings always needs good safety protection I think.
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anyone
Where are washing machines/tumble dryers/dishwashers? Do you have a separate utility room circuit or something?
Christian.
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No Christian, the house will be rented out when we've finished the renovations and we decided to let it as unfurnished so the only thing in the kitchen we are supplying is the built-in oven, hob and extractor. There is only one possible place for a fridge/freezer to go so, although we aren't providing it, I know where they'll have to plug theirs in which is why I can say that it will definitely be on the unprotected circuit.
There will be plumbing for a washing machine (or dishwasher) if the tenant has one. Should the supply for that preferably be protected or not?
Mogweed.
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I'd say it doesn't particularly matter. However, you should allow the expected load in your diversity calculations, even if you don't actually supply the appliance.
Christian.
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