Option One: A medium powered hob is hard wired via 6mm T&E from consumer unit protected by a
32A MCB fuse to a 45A cooker control switch that has a 13A socket outlet, then a 6mm cable runs to the hob, the < 2kW fitted oven is wired with 1.5mm 3 core flex (heat resistance can be used). Fit a 13A-fused plug the other end & plug it into the cooker control switch 13A socket.Option Two: The hob is wired the same but the < 2kW fitted single oven can be hard wired to a 13A switch fused spur, the spur unit can be fed with 4mm/6mm cable from either the cooker control switch or a cooker connection unit but make sure you have a >
45mm mounting box for room, then wire a 1.5mm/2.5mm to the 2kW oven. You must have easy access to fuses & switches so do not place anything switched or fused behind fitted ovens, duel cooker connections are also now available that can take up to 10mm cables. The golden rule is you must check the power in watts of each appliance & consider the total wattage for the circuit. It is paramount that you adhere to the appliance electrical wiring instructions. If it states an appliance must have a 13A fuse, then it generally means there is no internal fuse in the oven to protect the fan & mains input wiring & components, a 32A cooker circuit fuse would provide unsuitable protection for the appliance. Whilst a < 2kW single fitted oven can be plugged into a ring main 13A socket some do have 13A plugs already fitted, however it is better to plug it into the13A cooker control socket & circuit because the ring main tends to be already supplying high powered kitchen appliances. The most awkward scenario is if a fitted oven power consumption approaches >3kW there could be the occasional 13A blown fuse under no fault condition, some appliances over 3kW instruct a 16A fuse to be fitted, not sure if a 15A cartridge fused spur unit is available & perhaps a very small unit with a 16A MCB fuse would have to be used.