Change of electric cooker

Nov 11, 2013 4 Replies

We currently have a stand-alone electric cooker but, in a kitchen refurb planned for next week, we'll be replacing it with a built-in oven and a gas hob. The cooker circuit is on a 32A breaker in the consumer unit (IIRC - I'm not there to check at the moment) and is run in 6.0mm T&E.



The new oven and hob both have 'ordinary' 13A plugs on them, oven rated at 13A, gas hob electric ignition rated at 3A.



Can I just replace the Cooker Connection Unit with a 13A double socket, and if so, would it be necessary and/or wise to also change the 32A breaker for a lower rated one, even though the appliances will be protected by the fuses in the plugs?


I would used an unswitched one, because a) It's annoying to have pushed everything back in place, only to find you left a socket switched off, and b) it's one less contact resistance to warm up.

Buy a good quality socket because it will take a substantial current, and it won't be obvious if a cheap one starts overheating. Oven also needs a good quality plug, but that will probably be molded on the lead. Also, use a back box with plenty of depth, as 6mm cable is nowhere near as flexible as a couple of 2.5mm cables.

Not worth the effort.

There is no need - the 6mm^2 cable has adequate fault and overload protection provided by the MCB anyway,

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