I am encountering a reluctance to have velcro on the outside of the casement window as it is unsightly when the window vent isn't fitted (which will be most of the year).
Has anyone fitted a wall vent to connect to the ducting at the back of the aircon?
Big hole in the wall, don't think I have a hole saw that big.
Cheers
Dave R
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T
The Natural Philosopher
Rent one
J
Jeff Layman
Put the velcro on the inside "like what I have done" (to paraphrase Morecambe and Wise). White velcro on white PVC is not obviously visible, particularly behind a net curtain. You don't need full lengths - I fix my polycarb panel to the frame with a dozen 2cm square pieces.
D
David
What, a through wall vent?
How would that work?
Alternatively if you are suggesting that I rent a portable aircon unit, that still leave me with the problem of venting it to the outside.
More information would be helpful.
Cheers
Dave R
T
Theo
I wouldn't do that, it'll be a big source of cold in the winter. Even if you block it up it won't be as well sealed as the existing wall.
I would use full lengths so you get a good seal, otherwise those gaps will be how the AC unit is pulling back your recently-heated air back into the room.
Make a fake window pane out of thin perspex with a hole for the hose and it works as a window too.
A slightly more serious option would be to get a double glazed sealed unit and ask a glazing firm to cut a 'cat flap hole' of an appropriate dimension (the supplier will probably be able to do this). Then swap it for the sealed unit in your window for the summer and swap back the original one for the winter. Assuming you can get at the beading easily to remove the panel.
Theo
T
The Natural Philosopher
No. A sodding big hole saw
J
Jeff Layman
The gap is minute in comparison to the air which will come in under the door to replace that vented by the a/c unit. If you wanted to fill the gap it would be better to use some foam-backed adhesive tape. It is bad enough trying to pull the polycarb sheet away from the small amount of velcro I use - trying to pull the sheet away from more than 300cm of velcro would be very difficult!
But not as effective as insulating as twin-walled polycarb. The sheet material I used is fairly transparent.
How easy is it to remove the moving part of the casement window and replace it with the vented one? Or did you mean replacing the inner unit in the same way as might be necessary if it had "blown" and started to get condensation inside?
R
Roger Mills
That's precisely what I did. I hired a 6" holesaw to make the big hole in the wall.
Then I set some 6" circular plastic ducting through the wall, with a vent on the outside whick opens with airflow and closes by gravity.
I then fitted a ducting connector on the end of the flexible hose, which plugs into the wall duct.
This works much better than feeding the hose through an open window and then trying to seal round it to stop hot air coming in.
The hole is in the kneespace under a dressing table, so it's very unobtrusive when not in use. I made a close-fitting cylindrical plug using squirty foam to fill the duct in the winter, along with a wooden plug on the room side.
If anyone is sufficiently interested, I'll post some photos tomorrow.
C
Colin Macleod
I was in a similar situation, but since I'm in a top-floor flat with a loft above I made a substitute loft hatch with a six-inch round hole and fed the aircon hose through that so that it blows out into the loft space. This works quite well. I do have a plan to extend the run inside the loft so it blows out through the gap at the eaves, but haven't quite got round to doing that yet.
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