My dryer is in my basement laundry room which is below ground. There
is not enough room/space to drill a 4" round opening to (or from) the
outside for a dryer vent. At the very top of the basement wall (which
is made of cinder blocks) there is a 9" header I think you call it.
Even this header wood is mostly below ground level.
There is a window on the wall behind the dryer but the window is just
below ground level. The window leads out to a window well on my patio
which is covered by a steel grate.
One option which I really don't want to do is to take out one of the
two side-by-side pieces of window glass and replace it with plexyglass
with a cut out for the 4" round dryer vent. This would route the hot
air out into the window well but, over time, all of the dryer lint
would coat the inside bricks of the window well. Probably the outside
of the remaining window glass too. There'd be no good way to clean it
if that happened.
Most all drier vent tubes are flexible aluminum or plastic in a 4"
diameter. There is a possibility that if I didn't have to use the 4"
venting pipe/tube I'd be able to drill a small hole in the wood header
near the window. But even if I did, the vent would be just above the
There's got to be a way to vent my dryer to the outside, but my
basement is entirely below ground and there's no path to get outside
other than through the top of the header.
Are there smaller diameter hoses that I could use to dead-end into a
smaller vent cover that could be mounted outside?
Any, and I mean ANY, suggestions are most appreciated.
Look again at what you call header ( technically called an _outside rim
joist_). If that is below ground level, the vent is the least of your
worries (think termites & or water infiltration, rot etc.) You say the
window is just below ground level, the outside rim joist will run above the
window on the sill plate (flat 2"x more than likely 8"). The hole can be
cut in the outside rim joist (the upright 2"x material).
One solution would be to put a wider window well outside and have a 4" hole
drilled just beside the window. This is the solution I used at my place. The
lint collects mostly at the bottom of the well, quite easy to clean.
Will the walter flow to the basment through the pipe if there
is a heavy rain storm when the well gets flooded?
Will you have to shovel off the snow if the outlet is near the
grade and house?
Yes it will. We had a flash flood rain this summer that lasted 2 hours.
Water filled my window wells and 1/4 of the way up the window so if you had
an opening there wow. I got about 2" of water in the bsmt that we were
pushing toward the drain with snow shovels. If we had an open hole like a
dryer vent at that height we would not have been looking at inches of water
but many feet of water.
Good point someone.
I guess it depends where you live. I've never seen any water at all in my
window well, even after heavy rains. Anyway, if there had been a flood, the
water would have been pouring in through my window screen (I use this to
ventilate my crawlspace), way before going through the dryer vent (the vent
is about 2 feet above the floor of the window well). At my sister's house,
however, her window wells have been flooded a couple of times in the past 10
years, so I may not have used the same solution for her house.
Concerning the snow, because the well is quite deep and near the house, it
is very rare that it gets filled with snow (and we get plenty of snow here
up north). Maybe once or twice a winter, I need to clear it up a bit.
Between snow storms the heat of the dryer air melts the snow already in the
well, so it doesn't build up.
you could put any size hole in the side that equaled the same size as a 4" .
What kind of heat do you have no furnace in the basement ? What have you
been doing. Where does your phone power come into the house?
If you can get the vent outside you could always use PVC and bury it so it
came out someplace else and use and inverted J for the vent
I have a gas hot water heating system (the registers just contain fins and
hot water is pushed through pipes to the fins to heat the air).
Phone lines come into the basement also but a good 20 feet from the dryer.
If you are saying I could make any size opening (i.e. 2" - 3") then maybe
I'll look for a reducing coupling at my local HD to attach to the 4" vent
I like the idea off an inverted J. The opening would come very close to the
patio bluestone slate and I'd prefer to have the hot air/lint get exhausted
several inches off of the patio slate. I'd have to rig some sort of closing
mechanism with a screen to keep out varmints/insects.
No, what I'm saying is the piece that protrudes to the outside air. I don't
have enough room for a 4" round opening and the square vent hood which must
be 5x5, so I was thinking to butt the 4" round vent tubing coming from the
dryer to a smaller connector at the wall.
If this is not acceptable then I will not do it.
By the way, what I've been doing over the years is venting the electric
dryer into the laundry room and the end of the dryer tubing has a lint
filter on it.
wrote in message
On Tue, 14 Dec 2004 11:24:21 -0500, someone wrote:
Your thinking may be too limited. Run the vent into the 1st floor of
the house, and then out through the wall at any height you please.
What rooms are above where the dryer is now, and/or can either the
dryer or the vent pipe be routed to where there is a closet, base
cabinets, a room corner, etc. in the floor above. (Unless you have
2x6 walls like I do, in which case the 4" vent can run entirely inside
the wall cavity.)
Well, you said you wanted any suggestion....
Reply to NG only - this e.mail address goes to a kill file.
Wherever the pipe is it must be 4" or larger, if it is a long run then you
must go larger. You should not be venting moist air inside the house.
There are health concerns with this including mould problems.
wrote in message
I was thinking along the same lines as wayne. It you made your hole and
then put 4" (or bigger) of CPVC through it and then filled the space around
the pipe with hydraulic cement and then sent it wherever you wanted
underground and then come up - remembering distance means air resistance
keep it to a reasonable length. Then put your tin from the dryer up to the
CPVC. Don't use CPVC right from the dryer.
I did the same thing to get a water drain out to my detached garage. Before
backfilling tar the heck out of the area around the pipe as it comes through
If the masonry foundation does not extend above earth, then
you have serious termite and other insect infestation threat.
Wood floor joists must butt end on the outside wall ABOVE
earth ground. Fix the grading.
In the meantime, a dryer vent rising up that high may
eventually create a potential fire hazard if done in plastic.
That vent is best installed in aluminum - not plastic.
You cannot reduce the 4 inch pipe. In fact, the longer that
pipe, then the large diameter that vent pipe must be.
The vent must be high enough to remain clear of snow. You
may just have to bring the vent up through next floor, then
out through wall there. Then build a wall about that vent
pipe on the higher floor.
Don't screw around with 'good enough' solutions. If earth
is above the top of that foundation, then you also have severe
building integrity problems.
An system is made that lets you vent to the inside of your house. You
have to clean the filter often, and hot air is blown through it. Try
Froogle or Improvements Catalog or similar places.
On another note, you say your basement is entirely below ground and
there is no path to get outside other than through the header or
window. If you don't have a door to the outside from your basement,
you have a major fire hazard.
Dim wit, he already HAD one of those. He mentioned it in his 1st
post. For his ELECTRIC dryer. Now he has GAS. A "filter" isn't
going to take the CO2 or CO out of the products of combustion of his
GAS burning dryer.
LOTS of basements have no direct door to the outside. It is
completely legal. For this and other reasons, one is therefore not
supposed to have occupancies like bedrooms down there, but there is no
unusual hazard for 'normal' basement uses.
Reply to NG only - this e.mail address goes to a kill file.
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