Outdoor lights

Hello there

I'm after some advice please. I'm a pretty competent DIYer....

We've currently got two outside circuits which are each connected to a

5amp fused switch, and the connected to a socket each with 5amp fuses. The lights are 500/300w floodlights.

I'm ripping them out and want to replace this with two circuits:

  1. 3 lanterns with energy saving bulbs (20w) each and LED decking lights (back garden lighting)
  2. 2 lanterns on a wired PIR sensor. Again 20w each.

My plan is to use one of the cables from the plug on a 3 or 5amp fuse to a indoor junction box where it splits in two. These will then go to a double switch, then go outside to the lights on the circuits I've described above. I plan to plug this into a RCD attach socket.

I've got a few questions if that's ok?

  1. Can I safely run all this stuff off a single socket? If so what fuse rating do I need?
  2. I've assumed the fused switch isn't needed as it's fused at the socket. Am I right in thinking this?
  3. I don't think I'm changing the outside circuit by doing this..... so don't need to inform the local council?

Thanks in advance for your help

Michael

Reply to
Tctcmichael
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The total load is the key here. It sounds like your total load is going to be less than a couple of hundred watts, so your maximum current draw is likely to be no more than an amp.

Yes - you only need one fuse, the size selected to give adequate fault protection at the furthest reach of your circuit.

Part P no longer includes changes to outside circuits as notifiable anyway.

Reply to
John Rumm

Yup. £a or 5A is fine

right

20w on PIR suggests CFL - they might not last well with frequent switching.

NT

Reply to
meow2222

And they don't like starting when cold. Vary a bit some are OKish others are really dim and dim by CFL "cold", as in heated indoors, cold start light levels.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

When did that change then?

Gor any details?

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

In the most recent version of the Part P approved doc:

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The main changes of note are:

It is now permissible for an approved installer to certify the work of others (previously the only official routes were to self certify, or do a building notice - needless to say that was contrary to the only practical way that most people could work)

Kitchens are no longer included in "special locations" (just bath/shower rooms, sauna, and pool rooms)

So there are now only three stated tasks that are "notifiable"

1 Adding a new circuit 2 Replacing a consumer unit[1] 3 additions and alterations in a special location [1] Its interesting to note that it explicitly uses that phrase rather than simply "installing a consumer unit". This suggests a loophole that once could add an additional CU, and move an exiting circuit to it, and it still not be notifiable)
Reply to
John Rumm

then at a later date remove the old one

NT

Reply to
meow2222

Ta.

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

There are CFL security lights designed for outside use. They have two bulbs , one on permanently and the other that adds extra brightness when triggere d by the PIR. As well as covering the notorious slow startup, the former pr esumably keeps things warm inside for the latter. I have one but haven't in stalled it yet, so I can't say how well it works. Maybe LEDs will simplify things.

Reply to
chrisj.doran%proemail.co.uk

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