In addition max heating may occur well below several centimeters if that is where the microwave beam is focussed.
Its not just attentuation, it's how strong the beam was in a given place, to start with.
In addition max heating may occur well below several centimeters if that is where the microwave beam is focussed.
Its not just attentuation, it's how strong the beam was in a given place, to start with.
Yes, except I was recently given some dishes because they had a gold rim and were not microwaveable.
After a few cycles in the dishwasher the gold leaf was sufficiently broken they could go in the microwave without drama! Well, there might have been the odd spark!
Doesn't it say that on the instructions too?
If its not got much electronics then it probably uses a bimetallic strip and heater to vary the power by switching on and off, when they are used for a long time the whole thing gets hotter so they spend more time off than they do when cold at the beginning.
====snip====
Not unless you want to watch the pretty pyrotechnics display as it vaporises the gold leaf off[1] the ceramic. :-)
[1] Fortunately, gold is perfectly safe to ingest so doesn't represent a toxic hazard. I did this (accidentally to start with) with my favourite bone china tea mug about a decade back.A quick wipe around the rim with wire wool nicely smoothed away the remnants after completing the half dozen or so cycles of re-heating whatever it was I was reheating that the pretty side effect lasted for before disappearing entirely. There remains some gold leaf coating but now it only exists in short non-resonant sections around the rim.
But you have just posted evidence that microwave energy does only penetrate 12.5-17 mm. If it went further then the zone of warming after it has a chance to conduct would be deeper.
I don't expect you to apologies, ever.
12.5 eh Den? Sure it's that rather than 12 or possibly 13?
Again in English, please.
Now we have microwave ovens with focused beams! Just the opposite of what they design them to be. Wriggle, wriggle.
Mine specifically says put a spoon in if you are heating a liquid.
You might well find that if you tear your foil to the wrong size you will get sparks and start a fire.
Done that.
they use a bimetal disc to cut power to the transformer when the transforme r nears overheat temp.
NT
I've seen references to that but never tried it.
I once left one of those bag ties with a bit of wire in the middle on something I was defrosting. The pyrotechnics made sure I've not done it since. The wire was partly vapourised and there was a thin coating on the inside of the uWave.
?1.5 inches)
he didn't say they were focussed. Beams within the cooking cavity are an in evitable result of the wavelength of rf used. Rotation of food evens out th e cumulative heating from this unevenly distributed heat source.
NT
foil shielding works, but it can result in damage if
- the foil gets too close to the wall
- the foil edges are too uneven
- etc Hence most mfrs just say don't do it. They don't want warranty returns & co mplaints.
NT
Read his post, try searching for focussed if you can't see it.
So what you are now saying is that if I use 100% power, as indeed I do when cooking and not defrosting, the power output is constant.
I thought your earlier post was nonsense, now you have confirmed it.
Do you ever get anything right?
>Bill Wright formulated on Monday :
Accepted, but what really matters is the average power entering the food item. Blasting to large an item with full power, will cook the outer, but often leave inner cool or un-cooked.
dennis@home laid this down on his screen :
Or two or more bits of foil, with poor contact between them. Or foil which can make contact with the metal of the cabinet, as it rotates.
Likewise with two or more items of cutlery.
That helps prevent the liquid suddenly coming to the boil, as you take it out of the oven and scalding you.
Do you? You obviously can't understand something simple.
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