New front door - any advice welcome

have a limited budget. [snip]

We replaced our wooden front door a few years ago (it was warped) and chose to replace it with another wooden door. Close friends replaced their door a few years prior to this and chose a uPVC door - it looks pretty chunky but looks are deceptive. The problem with the friends door is that the frame was uPVC too (or so it seems) - resulting in a terrible job. That's what caused us to stick to wood for our replacement.

Regarding security, I'd advocate a mortice lock in the middle, a hand operated turn-buckle bolt at the base (without key) AND a nightlatch fitted higher than the mortise. The nightlatch's keeper fits into an electric strike release. Keypad outside the door too.

Thus: at night you can have the mortice AND the nightlatch AND the deadbolt securing the door. When you leave the house empty during the day the nightlatch and the mortice are used. When you are in the house the nightlatch keeps any old punter out but lets in people that know the keypad number. If you provide any kids with a door key there is less worry if they lose it because anyone finding the key and knowing which door it is for still has to get around the keypad mortice.

I bought a twenty-quid door closer from Screwfix to ensure that the door is closed automatically after use.

Next idea (when I get time) is to employ the services of another solenoid which will be energised via a simple timer circuit to keep the door open for (say) five minutes. Enough time to unload the shopping without wedging the door open permanently then forgetting about it.

The other idea regarding the "Door Sentinel" is in final stages on my electronic breadboard... :-)

HTH

Mungo

Reply to
mungoh
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It can be covered with some sticky-back plastic and it will then look just like a PVC door!

Owain

Reply to
Owain

have a limited budget.

too much.

have a 3 point locking system (which is a good

doors can't have a 3 point locking system.

to splinter under force.

Thanks for the info. RE: PVC door lock keep fixings. Good point. It's one of the things I will check if I go down the uPVC route. RE: Choice of locks. I'll check to see if the lock has BS3621 I want to make sure I've got the terminology right. Looking at the link you provided, am I right a rim lock is always fitted to the surface of the door and a mortice lock is always fitted inside the door? And a mortice bolt is turned by a key but not a unique key? Regards Andy

Reply to
Andy Whitfield

have a limited budget.

Thanks for the info. It's normal to have a uPVC frame with a uPVC door. What was the problem? I live on my own and as I'm out on business quite a lot, I need the door to be very secure when I'm not there. So as good as chains and inside bolts are when I'm in, they are of no use when I'm out. I've got a fairly good quote for uPVC and I'm now waiting for a quote for an aluminium door. Andy

Reply to
Andy Whitfield

I go down the uPVC route.

Naturally, quality is everything. mum's door was "free" with 5 D/G windows. But merely paying more money is not itself a guarantee of quality. That's why we need a standard.

Way to go,

provided, am I right a rim lock is always fitted

That's it.

Mortice rack bolt, operated by a simple key with splines that engage in the rack.

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more point, a tip from a locksmith. 7 lever mortice locks are not "better" than 5 lever locks but are significantly less reliable and have a shorter life, because the levers are thinner, and soon wear.

Lots of very good stuff in this book:

Guard Your Castle: A Plain Man's Guide to the Protection of His Home (1973) A non fiction book by John Wainwright

A copy apparently available for £1.60 on this link:

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connection BTW.

DG

Reply to
Derek Geldard

if I go down the uPVC route.

Thanks for all the info. I'll have a look at the link when I have time. I've found a local firm that manufacture uPVC doors and I've been to the factory so I can see the construction of their doors. Andy

Reply to
Andy Whitfield

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